Evenfall 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Tasmania's cool climate means you don't see many cabernets from the island state - it is a hard grape to get ripe and needs just the right site. This comes from a relatively new producer in the Tamar Valley - based at what used to be the Elmslie in Legana. It is extremely impressive - as you'd expect from accomplished consultant winemaker Liam McElhinney - very composed, cohesive and stylish. I also tried a chardonnay and a pinot noir from the same producer and all three were impressive. Definitely a name to watch. $48. https://evenfall.au/ 

Bream Creek 2023 Pinot Noir

 

There are few wine producers that offer consistent quality and value as does Bream Creek, tucked away on Tasmania's Tasman Peninsula. Vigneron Fred Peacock and his team have conjured a classic cool-climate estate pinot that's made in pretty small volumes. Vibrant red fruits dominate the bouquet and on the palate, where there is a youthful vibe and subtle spice hints. This would pair well with roast chicken, quail and other poultry dishes. Also check out the darker, more intense and cellar-worthy 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir ($70). This one is $50 and offers a lot of immediate drinking pleasure. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.

Sinapius 2023 Gruner Veltliner

 

Sinapius may be one of the smaller wine producers in Tasmania but Linda Morice is making some mighty wines from her close-planted hilltop vineyard at Pipers River. This is a super-impressive take on the Austrian grape variety gruner veltliner. which would seem well suited to Tasmanian conditions but is still surprisingly rare. This is a beautifully composed wine that manages to combine silky elegance with textural elements. Wild ferment and full malolactic fermentation have produced a wine full of interest. This is simultaneously floral, fruity, spicy and minerally. Lots of intensity, lots of length and lots of drinking pleasure here. $42. www.sinapius.com.au    

Henskens Rankin of Tasmania 2016 Brut Rosé

 

Another hugely impressive new release from Frieda Henskens and David Rankin, Tasmania's garagiste producers of quality traditional method sparkling wines. This is one of just 451 bottles made of this wonderfully expressive rosé bubbly that has benefited from extended time on lees, building complexity while managing to retain freshness. It is a multi-regional blend of fruit from the Coal River Valley and Pipers River with chardonnay (69%)the dominant grape variety. I loved the vibrancy in this salmon coloured wine with its evocative nose and a palate with notes of red fruits, sherbert, tangy pink grapefruit and ripe tangerine. There's a lot of length here, and some minerality on the finish. Pair with shellfish dishes and serve cool, but not cold. $105. https://henskensrankin.com/   

Hughes & Hughes 2024 Rosé

 

This brand-new release is a delightfully food-friendly rosé from the Hughes brothers of Mewstone fame; an impressive savoury drink that will star when the sun is shining a little more. The problem is, however, that many wines from this stable sell out within months, so it may all be sold by summer. Move quick. This is - confoundingly for those who have been told that rosés are not a mix of red and white grapes - a blend of syrah, tempranillo and chardonnay from both the south and north-west  of Tasmania, barrel fermented with wild yeasts and matured in tank (for just a few weeks). It is unfined, unfiltered and very delicious. Fewer than 800 cases were made. Pair this with a Lebanese mezze plate and chill - but not too much. $35. https://www.mewstonewines.com.au/hugheshughes-wines    

Wines by Aunt Alice 2023 Ocean Chardonnay

 
So you love Chablis, but want to drink Tasmanian? Former Norfolk Rise and Karatta winemaker Alice Davidson, now based at Franklin in the Huon Valley, has the answer. Now a negociant/producer, Davidson uses grower fruit from across Tasmania to produce wines that are both edgy and delicious. The range also includes an unusual, but beguiling, oaked riesling and a whole-bunch driven pinot noir, but this is the star of the show for me; pure, focused and fruit-driven chardonnay. It is made from Tamar Valley fruit, hand-picked and barrel fermented with 15% new oak, a small portion of malo, and bottled unfined. But forget all that. It is, quite simply, a bloody lovely drink. Close to sold out, so be very quick. $50. https://www.auntalice.com.au/

Glaetzer-Dixon Family Winemakers 2021 Reveur Pinot Noir

Here is a serious, cellar-worthy pinot noir for those who enjoy their red wines with intensity and complexity. A blend of fruit from two Coal River Valley vineyards, it is dark and composed with plummy and black cherry characters front and centre with some classic cool-climate spice notes and some restrained oak influence. This is a finely poised wine, impressively balanced, that can be enjoyed in the short term, or benefit from 5-10 years of cellaring. $56. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

Holm Oak 2023 The Wizard Chardonnay

So you like your chardonnays with complexity and texture? You’ve come to the right place. This is the top of the range chardonnay from Tamar Valley producers Holm Oak - and it really hits the mark for anyone looking for an elegant but full-flavoured chardy. Barrel fermentation with 66% new oak and 100% wild fermentation, followed by two-thirds malo has given this plenty of oomph while retaining varietal character. More on the stone fruit side of the spectrum with some appealing herbal notes and vanilla oak making an impact without intruding. From a very good vintage for quality, this would pair well with shellfish dishes, or perhaps a creamy seafood risotto. $65. https://www.holmoakvineyards.com.au/

Delamere 2022 Block 8 Pinot Noir

 

This is the flagship pinot noir in Delamere's impressive range - and undoubtedly one of the best in Tasmania. Wife and husband team Fran Austin and Shane Holloway craft some exquisite estate wines from their vineyards at Pipers Brook in the north of the state. This has varietal character, complexity and impressive structure, along with a big dollop of yum. The Block wines - there is also an impressive 2022 Block 3 Chardonnay - come from the best two or three barriques of each vintage. This is made from 40+ year old vines with 30% whole bunch adding textural feel. There were only 600 bottles made, so it will be the quick and the thirsty who will be lucky, even at $135 a bottle. www.delamerevineyards.com.au     

Five Bob 2022 Pinot Noir

 

Five Bob is the newest label in the fast-emerging d'Entrecasteaux region south of Hobart. New vineyards were planted in 2018 to the two varieties that shine in southern Tasmania; pinot noir and chardonnay, along with some pinot gris and riesling. This has an appealing youthful energy to it, with vibrant varietal characters and plenty of vim and vigour. Five Bob is located at Birchs Bay and the wines are made - in tiny quantities - just down the road at Mewstone by talented Jonny Hughes. Think 20% whole bunch, gently pressed, and aged in seasoned French oak. Unfiltered and unfined, Only 780 bottles made. One for drinking in its youth, I think, and it paired well with lamb burgers and Mediterranean vegetables. $45..https://fivebob.com.au/

Glaetzer Dixon Family Winemakers 2023 Überblanc

Überblanc is winemaker Nick Glaetzer's Tasmanian tribute to the elegant style of rieslings made in Pfalz region of Germany - an area he worked in while learning his craft. Glaezter, who works from an urban winery in Hobart (visit if you get the chance), is best known for his red wines, but this has a cult following for its crisp but textural appeal. It is beautifully balanced with lees treatment adding to the mouthfeel and structure. Think citrus; think minerality, think immediate drinking pleasure. The fruit is a blend of 70% Tamar Valley from the north of Tasmania and 30% from the Coal River Valley outside Hobart. $30 each by the dozen from the webiste. We paired this with seared tuna and aubergine. It worked a treat. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/ 

Holm Oak 2023 Chardonnay

 

Looking for a vivacious, cool-climate chardonnay that is very food friendly? You've come to the right place. Husband and wife team Tim and Bec Duffy have come up with the goods with this new-release Tamar Valley chardonnay that offers a lot of immediate drinking pleasure. Like most Tassie chardonnays, this is elegant and high in natural acidity. There is nice balance between lemon and white stone fruit characters while French oak and natural ferment are key elements in creating palate interest, along with partial malo and occasional lees stirring. There is youthful drive while the finish is driven by brisk acidity. Pair with poultry dishes for max pleasure. $40. www.holmoakvineyards.co.au

Stefano Lubiana 2022 La Roccia Pinot Noir

Stefano, Monique and Marco Lubiana are at the vanguard of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Tasmania. This is one of a trio of individual site pinots they release annually to demonstrate the difference that can exist between grapes grown on three different blocks, all within 500 metres of each other. This compellingly nuanced pinot is made from fruit grown on terra rossa soil with limestone chalk on their estate at Granton, north of Hobart and overlooking the River Derwent. It is a serious wine with plenty of depth of flavour and definite stony minerality. All three wines - the others are the Rusecllo and Il Giardino - are made using 100% whole bunch and wild ferment before being gravity filled into large format, mainly older, French oak. Unfined, unfiltered and deserving of at least five years in the cellar. $110. slw.com.au      

Moores Hill 2022 Pinot Noir

 

Solar-powered Moores Hill is a popular stop-off for anyone visiting the Tamar Valley with a cellar door that has great vineyard views and wines that offer good value for money. This is one of the rare pinots from Tasmania that sells for under $40. Pinot noir is a fickle, demanding grape and most Tasmanian producers are extremely small scale operations. This is a classic cool-climate pinot with cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavours to the fore with just a hint of pepper/spice. Soft, easy drinking is on offer here with 30% new French oak, gentle plunging, 12 months maturation and vegan fining completing the package. Undemanding and serious fun. $40. https://www.mooreshill.com.au/

Kate Hill 2022 Sauvignon Blanc

This is a sauvignon blanc for people who might not be fans of the variety. I occasionally help out at Kate Hill's cellar door and find it appeals to a lot of folk who initially say: "I'll pass on the sauvignon blanc". With definite tropical fruit notes rather than green/herbaceous characters, it is a lovely wine for enjoying on the porch after work, or with a late-season picnic. The wine spent six months in aged oak barrels, so could legitimately be labelled as fumé blanc. Time in bottle has given it a bright but rounded finish. One of only a few savvy blancs in Tasmania and worth checking out. Serve well chilled. $33. www.katehillwines.com.au

Frogmore Creek NV Ruby Pinot Noir

 

Given it is consistently the coolest wine growing region in Australia, Tasmania is not noted for its fortified wines. It is, in fact, surprising that a winter warmer like this exists at all. Winemakers Alain Rousseau and John Bown have crafted a drink that is ideal for enjoying in front of the fire on a cold Tasmanian winter evening. With 114 grams of residual sugar, this has Christmas cake and toffee notes. 100% pinot was fortified with premium brandy spirit and enjoyed extended barrel maturation using the Solera system over a 10-year period. $40 for 500ml.

Stargazer 2023 Riesling

 

Sam Connew's wine journey has taken her from New Zealand to McLaren Vale, the Hunter Valley and now Tasmania, where she is crafting outstanding wines from both her Coal River estate vineyard and some grower fruit. The 2023 vintage was a difficult one but several Stargazer releases shine, including this one, made from a grape that can produce outstanding wines in Tasmania but is often overshadowed by chardonnay and pinot noir. This single-vineyard release from Tea Tree has some apple and Asian fruit characters alongside the classic citrus notes and finishes with lively acidity and freshness and a hint of fruit sweetness. Wild ferment adds a textural element and there is plenty of length here. Pair with Thai or Korean dishes. $36. https://www.stargazerwine.com.au/

Chartley Estate 2023 Chardonnay

 

Chartley Estate is a small family-owned vineyard on the west bank of the Tamar River that is producing fruit of a very high quality. The talented Peter Dredge is on board as consultant winemaker, ensuring the wines are full of interest. The chardonnays, in particular, tend to sell out quick smart, and that is no surprise. This is medium-bodied and immediately approachable with French oak playing a minor support role on a palate where white stone fruit flavours are the driving force. There's plenty of length here, excellent drive and lots of enjoyment. Look for it in retail as supplies are low. $40. https://chartleyestatevineyard.com.au/ 

Josef Chromy 2023 Pinot Gris

 

I tried this a few months ago and enjoyed it. Tried it again at a function earlier this month and it had really come together as a deliciously cohesive drink that sits midway between pinot gris and pinot grigio stylistically. It proved an excellent match with finger food on a sunny day. Winemaker Ockie Myburgh has conjured up a cool-climate white with an edgy vivacity that has notes of stone fruit, green apple and subtle spices. It finishes fresh and clean and is definitely best enjoyed chilled. A terrific midweek choice. The Chromy cellar door and restaurant at Relbia, just down the road from Launceston Airport, is also well worth a visit. $36. https://josefchromy.com.au/ 

Frogmore Creek 2023 Chardonnay

French-born Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau has a natural affinity with the chardonnay grape, as is evidenced by his excellent new release I tasted through distributors Red & White. Made from chardonnay sustainably grown in the cool Coal River Valley, this spent 10 months in oak - no malo - and was released unfined to retain maximum character. This has some lovely, lively fresh white stone fruit flavours allied to some hazelnut characters and bright and breezy natural acid. It made a very amiable partner for a grilled pork chop. Terrific value. $38. https://www.frogmorecreek.com.au/  

Apogee Alto 2022 Pinot Noir

Over several decades in the Tasmanian wine industry, pioneering winemaker Andrew Pirie has always taken his craft very seriously. Pirie's obsession with minutiae means that his wines are always seriously good - as is the case with this new-release pinot noir from his tiny vineyard at Lebrina in the north of state. This is a classic,  aromatic and intellectual cool-climate pinot with layers of flavour across the palate. There are multiple textural elements in a wine which is already appealing, but I suspect will reward medium-term cellaring. Classic red fruit flavours lead the way here along with some gentle forest floor funk and soft but obvious acidity on the finish. French oak barrique maturation has added style and substance. Pirie suggests pairing with roast chicken, I went with roast lamb en croute. $65. https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir

There are boutique wines, and there are boutique wines. They don't get much more niche than the Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir - released this week from a one-hectare, pinot-only vineyard at Middleton in Tasmania's far south. This is so niche that only 50 cases were produced, so it might pay to be swiftly off the mark for this darkly coloured pinot with its dark cherry flavours and bright, crunchy acid on the palate; a wine that is full of youthful verve. It is made from vines that are now over 20 years old, grown on a hillside with views of Bruny Island. $45. https://www.resolutionvineyard.com.au/

Stoney Rise 2022 Pinot Noir

 

It is hard nowadays to find a decent bottle of Tasmanian pinot noir for under $50. Production costs are high, most producers are small scale, and demand has rocketed over the past few years. Thank goodness, then, for Joe Holyman and his Stoney Rise label, which offers value with a capital V.  There is immediate drinking pleasure on offer here with a pinot made from a blend of 85% estate and 15% grower fruit. You don't need to think too much about this one; it is effortlessly drinkable with plenty of bright red fruit flavours and impressive drive. Maturation in old oak puncheons has added palate interest. The 2023 vintage has just been released but there should still be some 2022 in retail. $35. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Apogee Deluxe 2020 Vintage Rosé

 

Andrew Pirie has been at the pinnacle of winemaking in Tasmania for five decades and even though he has tiny production numbers under his Apogee label, his wines are always worth looking out for. This is an outstanding recent release sparkling rosé with impressive aromas of florals, red berries and flint leading on to a palate this is pure, delicate and dry. This is a blend of : 75% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier that finishes mid-weight and flavoursome with what Pirie describes as a finishing "citrus tang". A perfect partner for poultry dishes. $82. https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Bream Creek 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir

You can choose just about any Bream Creek wine to review: the quality is excellent across the board. From a purely selfish point of view I wish I had not opened this one, however. It is going to be even better in 4-5 years if you have the patience to cellar it. It is a powerful, concentrated cool-climate pinot that it is still a way from its prime. The Bream Creek team choose just 10% of their best fruit in barrel for this reserve blend - and it is a ripper. Pair with Chinese roast duck or pork. $70. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Craigie Knowe 2021 White Label Sparkling Rosé

This is summer in a bottle: a pale, fun but elegant rosé that delivers plenty of flavour and refreshment when served well chilled. It was one of the standouts at a Red & White trade tasting this week. It comes from a family-owned and -operated wine producer that was a pioneer on the East Coast of Tasmania 45 years ago. It is delicate, crisp and dry with strawberry and redcurrant flavours on the palate. Perfect as a aperitif, or perhaps paired with a prawn cocktail or seafood platter. $50. https://craigieknowe.com.au/ 

Josef Chromy 2023 Pinot Gris

Tasmania produces such outstanding sparkling wines, and table pinot noirs and chardonnays, that other varieties tend to sit in their shadows. Pinot gris is one such example, with this offering delightful aromas and textures from a winery that should be on the radar of any wine lover visiting Tasmania with its excellent cellar door and on-site restaurant. Think melon and stone/tropical fruit notes, a hint of spice and plenty of summer refreshment. Made 100% from fruit grown in the north of Tasmania, this can be paired with anything from dim sums to spicy Portuguese chicken. $35. josefchromy.com.au

Domaine A 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

This is definitely not what most wine lovers would expect from a Tasmanian red. It's made from cabernet sauvignon for heaven's sake. It is 10 years old and still on sale through cellar door. And it is a triumph for lovers of classic Bordeaux-style wines, a tribute to the foresight of the late Peter Althaus who realised that his little hotspot vineyard in the Coal River Valley could enable grape varieties like cabernet and merlot to shine on the Apple Isle. This is a mature textural and savoury wine, certainly, but it retains intensity and style alongside its secondary characters. Made with minimal intervention, this spent 30 months in French oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. It was brilliant with a chunk of Red Leicester cheese. $115. https://domaine-a.com.au/ 

Bream Creek Vineyard 2022 Reserve Chardonnay

 

Looking for an excellent example of precise, pleasurable cool-climate Tasmanian chardonnay? This one delivers in spades. Fred Peacock and his team at Bream Creek on the Tasman Peninsula have built a formidable reputation for consistency and value - and this lives up to those levels. It is a serious wine made from the top 15% of the chardonnay produced. Think white peach, zingy grapefruit and well judged oak in a support role. Delicious with poultry dishes, this one. It is, sadly, sold out at cellar door but you might find some in retail outlets. It's certainly worth a look. Oh, and if you are in Tasmania, the Bream Creek cellar door is one of the best in the state. $50. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Holm Oak Vineyards 2022 Pinot Noir

Wine lovers across Australia just can't get enough of cool-climate pinot noir from Tasmania, with premium bottlings selling for three-figure sums and often sold out within a few months of release. From a small family-owned and -operated vineyard in the Tamar Valley this is undoubtedly one of the best pinot noir buys from the Apple Isle right now - it is delightfully varietal, very composed and excellent value. It paired brilliantly with some slightly runny Delice de Bourgogne cheese. Think black cherry and spice, hints of minerality and impressive tannin structure. Drink now, or cellar for a few years. $40. https://www.holmoakvineyards.com.au/