Thursday, 1 June 2023

Simha 2022 Nature Pinot Noir


Nav Singh frim Domaine Simha relishes doing things a little bit differently. His Tasmanian wines are always challenging and interesting, with this young pinot made from a single vineyard at Meadowbank in the Derwent Valley no exception. If you enjoy lighter, complex and elegant pinots in the Burgundy mould then this will be right up your street. Just 1500 bottles were produced utilising fruit grown using biodynamic principles and undergoing whole bunch wild ferment, and pigeage before spending two months on skins and a year in large format French oak. Aromatic, compelling, basket pressed and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Lovely stuff. $55.

Thursday, 25 May 2023

Stoney Rise 2022 Trousseau


Joe Holyman likes to march to the beat of a different drum. His wine range includes varieties like gruner veltliner and savagnin, both rare in Tasmania, along with the extremely unusual trousseau, a French red grape from the Jura region that is also known as bastardo. This sits somewhere between pinot meunier and grenache when it comes to weight, so it is a bright, juicy style of wine - and very food friendly. The grapes were 100% estate grown in the Tamar Valley, from young vines and the wine was aged in clay amphora pots prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fresh and fruity with red cherry notes, but with some added power from a warm year. Holyman reckons you should pair this with a tuna steak, or cheese kransky. He might be joking; but maybe not. $40.

Thursday, 18 May 2023

Moores Hill 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir

Balance is a key factor when it comes to pinot noir. And this new release from Tamar Valley standout Moores Hill has impeccable balance. James Oliver and Constance Olivier haven't missed a beat since taking over the vineyard and business from the Allport family last year - and this is a delightful example of complex, complete cool-climate pinot. It is made from three barriques that stood out from the rest despite containing fruit from vines under a decade old. There is everything you'd look for in a young wine here; dark fruit and earthy aromas, palate intensity with black fruit and spice notes, along with a soft finish. Lovely stuff. $65.

Thursday, 11 May 2023

Bubb + Pooley 2022 Chardonnay


Bubb + Pooley is the private label, or "side hustle", of winemaking duo Justin Bubb and Anna Pooley, designed as a space where they can expand their stylistic boundaries. This an excellent example of Coal River Valley chardonnay made from fruit grown by one of their friends. The grapes were fermented and matured in a "spherical concrete vessel" and French oak barriques, The end result is both vegan friendly and unfined. There was partial malolactic fermentation, but this wine is all about the freshness and purity of the cool-climate fruit. There is a lovely vibrancy and bright acid here. If you love white Burgundies then this will be right up your alley. $65.

Thursday, 4 May 2023

Chatto 2022 Bird Vineyard Pinot Noir


In addition to the outstanding pinot noirs from their Isle vineyard in the Huon Valley, Jim and Daisy Chatto also produce a limited-release range of pinots made using fruit from different vineyards around Tasmania. There are tiny amounts of the delightful Seven Inch pinot from a minuscule vineyard overlooking the Huon; the darker, more muscular Killara from the Coal River Valley, and the lutruwita, a lovely blend of fruit from several different vineyards around the state. If you like your pinots light and ethereal, this is probably the one for you: made from fruit grown on a Pipers River vineyard planted by Tasmanian pioneer Dr Andrew Pirie in 1998, Bird is a red-fruited single clone (214) wine with hints of spice on the nose and wonderful length and purity. Be quick, all these wines are in very short supply. $70ish.

Thursday, 27 April 2023

Bream Creek 2022 Estate Pinot Noir


For almost 50 years Bream Creek has been delivering great value wines from the south-east corner of Tasmania. The estate vineyard overlooks Maria Island. This is a classic cool-climate Tassie pinot without the price tag of some of its Apple Isle compadres. There is an aromatic nose of dark fruits and spices, which leads on to a palate alive with vibrant cherry, plum and berries flavours. This finishes long and has an impressive tannin structure which suggests cellaring potential. But why wait? It is delicious now with a lamb backstrap, or perhaps a platter of Tasmanian cheeses. $45.

Thursday, 20 April 2023

Brown Brothers 2021 Patricia Chardonnay


Brown Brothers, one of Australia's leading family wine producers, has made a major investment in Tasmania. Not only does it own and operate labels including Tamar Ridge, Devil's Corner and Pirie, it is also now sourcing Tasmania fruit for wines including its own high-end sparkling wines, and for this exquisite chardonnay, which is made from fruit grown on the the East Coast and the Tamar Valley. Only released in outstanding years, this vintage was whole bunch-pressed and barrel fermented but the stellar cool-climate fruit remains the star turn. Vibrant but impeccably balanced, it is elegant, with bright acid, citrus and white stone fruit notes. French oak sits in the background and the wine has a lovely mouthfeel. Worth a splurge, perhaps for Mother's Day. $60.