Holm Oak 2022 Riesling

 

I found it really hard to decide whether to review this new release or the excellent 2021 Holm Oak Pinot Noir. In the end I opted for this because everyone knows about the quality of Tasmanian pinot noir but quality riesling from the island state remains far less well known. This is a stellar example of cool-climate riesling from husband and wife team Tim and Bec Duffy at Holm Oak in the Tamar Valley. Thank fresh floral aromas, bright, crunchy acidity and vibrant lemon/lime fruit notes with delightful minerality. A lovely food wine for only $30. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au/

Dr Edge 2021 Chardonnay

 

It is a foolish rookie error to leave it a few weeks before reviewing any Dr Edge wine release. Peter Dredge's wines have a cult following and this one is sold out - according to the website - although you may be lucky enough to find some in retail stores. Dredge is probably best known for pinot noir and riesling, but this blend of fruit from both ends of Tasmania soars and swirls with a palette of flavours and textures, while remaining resolutely varietal. Using Tamar and Derwent Valley fruit, it was pressed to old casks and then barrel fermented in there before being aged for nine months. This is a wonderfully athletic and energetic wine with citrus fruit, minerality and structure. Very impressive. $65. https://www.dr-edge.com/

Bream Creek 2021 Reserve Chardonnay

 

There are very few wine producers in Tasmania as versatile - or reliable - as Bream Creek. From sparkling wines to rieslings, pinot noirs to Bordeaux blends, everything Bream Creek produce is impressive and sensibly priced - a testament to Fred Peacock's viticultural expertise and deft winemaking from Liam McElhinney. This new release hits a lot of high notes for lovers of serious cool-climate chardonnays: it is very varietal and with terrific structure, so this can either be enjoyed in its youth - perhaps with some pan-fried flathead - or cellared over the short to medium term. $48. www.breamcreekvineyard.com 

Kate Hill 2017 Pinot Noir

 

Kate Hill only releases her wines when she thinks they are approaching their peak, which means her range includes a delicious 2019 riesling and this nifty new-release pinot. Made from a blend of fruit sourced from the Coal River and Derwent Valleys, but made in her Huon Valley winery, this pulls off the clever trick of combining classic dark cherry and currant flours with some earthy undergrowth/mushroom notes. The end result is an extremely food friendly medium-bodied red that combined a treat with a roast lamb en croute. $42. www.katehillwines.com.au/       

Lowestoft 2020 La Maison Pinot Noir

 

This was named Pinot Noir of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion 2023, so I had high expectations. That were exceeded. This is sophisticated, stylish, slinky and sexy - the vinous equivalent of a little black dress, where less is more. The Fogarty Group purchased the historic Lowestoft vineyard at Berriedale in 2019 and winemaker Liam McElhinney is making the most of the fruit - with this wine having a big impact at capital city shows. Owner Peter Fogarty believes the close-planted, three-hectare Lowestoft site, which is approaching 50 years of age, has the potential to produce one of Australia’s greatest pinot noirs - and he's been proven right straight off the bat. This is a precise, structured pinot with dark and red fruit flavours; texture has been added by the inclusion of whole bunches and with French oak making an impact in the background. Buy at least two bottles, One for  now and one for the cellar. 97 points from me. $130. https://lowestoft.wine

Invercarron 2022 Rosé

The Jones family were early settlers in the Jordan Valley, north of Hobart, with a history dating back to 1827. They have been farming in the region for generations. Their latest venture is the first vineyard in the Jordan Valley - one that is producing impressive fruit, as evidenced by this aromatic, lively and food-friendly young pinot noir rosé that shone at a recent wine lunch at Rathmore. The estate-grown fruit is vinified at Ghost Rock in the north of the state. This is partially oak fermented to add palate interest, but is all about the lively strawberry fruit notes. Vegan friendly. $32. https://invercarronwines.com.au/

Delamere Vineyard 2021 Chardonnay

 

Two heads are certainly better than one in the case of Delamere Vineyard in Pipers River. Partners Fran Austin and Shane Holloway are both hugely talented winemakers in their own right and while they have tended to focus on sparkling wines recently, they also produce table wines of outstanding merit like this new-release cool-climate chardonnay that is elegant with plenty of personality. All the wines are 100% estate-grown, -made and bottled and this delightfully understated chardonnay offers white stone fruit and citrus notes with plenty of length and textural interest on the palate. Paired well with deep-fried ribaldo. $66. www.delamerevineyards.com.au/shop   

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