Stefano, Monique and Marco Lubiana are at the vanguard of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Tasmania. This is one of a trio of individual site pinots they release annually to demonstrate the difference that can exist between grapes grown on three different blocks, all within 500 metres of each other. This compellingly nuanced pinot is made from fruit grown on terra rossa soil with limestone chalk on their estate at Granton, north of Hobart and overlooking the River Derwent. It is a serious wine with plenty of depth of flavour and definite stony minerality. All three wines - the others are the Rusecllo and Il Giardino - are made using 100% whole bunch and wild ferment before being gravity filled into large format, mainly older, French oak. Unfined, unfiltered and deserving of at least five years in the cellar. $110. slw.com.au
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