Sinapius may be one of the smaller wine producers in Tasmania but Linda Morice is making some mighty wines from her close-planted hilltop vineyard at Pipers River. This is a super-impressive take on the Austrian grape variety gruner veltliner. which would seem well suited to Tasmanian conditions but is still surprisingly rare. This is a beautifully composed wine that manages to combine silky elegance with textural elements. Wild ferment and full malolactic fermentation have produced a wine full of interest. This is simultaneously floral, fruity, spicy and minerally. Lots of intensity, lots of length and lots of drinking pleasure here. $42. www.sinapius.com.au
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