Winemaker Joe Holyman boasts that his entry-level Stoney Rise pinot noir has not seen a price rise in a decade. At a time when new producers are commanding staggering sums for Tassie pinots, that makes this new release terrific value. It is a medium-bodied red, juicy and red fruit-driven pinot with hints of white pepper and a soft mouthfeel. One for drinking over the next couple of years, Holyman recommends pairing it with gyoza, or steak tartare. $29. www.stoneyrise.com.
The Arnold family is making some cracking wines from its vineyards at Northdown on the Central North Coast of Tasmania, just outside Devonport. Justin Arnold, son of the founders, has taken over the business and lifted it to new heights. This is a beautiful, modern-style, cool-climate chardonnay with plenty of flavour and matching textural appeal. It was hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed with barrel fermentation and partial malo lifting the texture, along with lees stirring. I love the intensity here; and the counterbalance of a brisk, acid finish. Very well priced, too. $35. www.ghostrock.com.au.
Another gem from Tasmania's first 100% solar-powered winery: Moores Hill on the left bank of the Tamar Valley. Made from pinot noir grapes, this is a classic savoury, pale rosé of huge appeal; matching brilliantly with everything from salads to Middle Eastern feasts or Asian stir-fries. You'll find juicy strawberry and cream characters on the palate, which finishes crisp and dry. Probably best enjoyed slightly chilled - and in its vibrant youth. $30. www.mooreshill.com.au.
Pipers Brook is one of Tasmania's pioneering wineries; starting back in 1974 when the industry was in its infancy. After a rocky period, the very talented Jim Chatto has righted the good ship and quality from the north coast vineyards is once again looking good. This is an atypical Tasmanian pinot noir in a way, quite big and inky with dark berry and spice characters and very firm tannins. It is an estate-grown and -bottled wine of definition and precision with its serious structure and length earmarking it as one for the cellar, medium to long term.
$45. www.kreglingerwineestates.com/pipers-brook
Frogmore Creek has long been at the forefront of cool-climate viticulture in Tasmania, producing an impressive range of wines from its vineyards in the Coal River Valley. This is a sustainable-grown, hand-picked pinot noir that's delightful when young, but should also cellar well for a decade or so if that is your preference. I like the approach French winemaker Alain Rousseau takes to pinot noir, treading a path midway between some over the uber-plush styles and pale creatures. This is a smoky, silky, textural and full-bodied number (think Hugh Hefner's pyjamas) with some ripe fruit but also astutely-judged balance. Charming. $40. www.frogmorecreek.com.au.
Mewstone produces terrific single-vineyard wines using fruit from a small vineyard at chilly Flowerpot in the far south of Tasmania. The Hughes brothers, who also make wines under the Hughes & Hughes label, are believers in minimal intervention and letting their fruit speak of its time and place. This wine is made in tiny quantities; whole-bunch pressed directly to barrel and naturally fermented. It spent nine months in 50% new oak before being released. I was lucky enough to try a glass at the Old Wharf restaurant at Hobart's Macq 01 hotel, where its vibrancy and textural interest paired impressively with with a whole baked snapper served with tarragon beurre blanc. All the elements of a terrific chardonnay are here in a wine of beautiful balance. If you are lucky enough to find any, snap it up. $60. www.mewstonewines.com.au.
For over 40 years, Dr Andrew Pirie has been at the forefront of the Tasmanian wine industry. He created some of the state's key vineyards and wineries including Pipers Brook, Ninth Island and Pirie sparkling. He now concentrates his efforts on his own Apogee label, with wines made from his small vineyard at Lebrina. 30 minutes north of Launceston. While sparkling wine is a focus, he also makes small quantities of Alto, which falls stylistically midway between pinot grigio and pinot gris. It has layers of flavour of the palate, a la gris, but also some zingy acid, in the style of grigio. This is a single vineyard wine from a very good vintage, very pale in colour with enticing floral aromatics and a busy palate with poached pear, talcum powder and that zesty minerality. Around 10% of the fruit was fermented
in small oak and allowed to proceed through a malolactic fermentation to soften and create
complexity. Textural and delicious, and fine match for fish dishes or white meats like pork and chicken. $44. www.apogeetasmania.com
