For over 40 years, Dr Andrew Pirie has been at the forefront of the Tasmanian wine industry. He created some of the state's key vineyards and wineries including Pipers Brook, Ninth Island and Pirie sparkling. He now concentrates his efforts on his own Apogee label, with wines made from his small vineyard at Lebrina. 30 minutes north of Launceston. While sparkling wine is a focus, he also makes small quantities of Alto, which falls stylistically midway between pinot grigio and pinot gris. It has layers of flavour of the palate, a la gris, but also some zingy acid, in the style of grigio. This is a single vineyard wine from a very good vintage, very pale in colour with enticing floral aromatics and a busy palate with poached pear, talcum powder and that zesty minerality. Around 10% of the fruit was fermented in small oak and allowed to proceed through a malolactic fermentation to soften and create complexity. Textural and delicious, and fine match for fish dishes or white meats like pork and chicken. $44. www.apogeetasmania.com
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