Mewstone produces terrific single-vineyard wines using fruit from a small vineyard at chilly Flowerpot in the far south of Tasmania. The Hughes brothers, who also make wines under the Hughes & Hughes label, are believers in minimal intervention and letting their fruit speak of its time and place. This wine is made in tiny quantities; whole-bunch pressed directly to barrel and naturally fermented. It spent nine months in 50% new oak before being released. I was lucky enough to try a glass at the Old Wharf restaurant at Hobart's Macq 01 hotel, where its vibrancy and textural interest paired impressively with with a whole baked snapper served with tarragon beurre blanc. All the elements of a terrific chardonnay are here in a wine of beautiful balance. If you are lucky enough to find any, snap it up. $60. www.mewstonewines.com.au.