Friday, 27 December 2024

Parish Vineyards 2024 Pinot Gris

Tasmania may be best known for sparkling wines, pinot noir and chardonnay, but it also a source of excellent cool-climate rieslings and pinots gris that are floral and zesty. This is a recent release from the team behind the Jansz sparkling labels, using fruit from small vineyards dotted around the Apple Isle. This comes from a vineyard at Evandale, near Launceston Airport. It is deliciously refreshing, with lifted pear notes and bright acidity. Its sibling, a 2024 riesling from Sorrel, east of Hobart, is equally impressive. We paired the PG with a post-Christmas turkey biriyani, but it could also go well with seafood, poultry dishes or summer picnics. $36.

Friday, 20 December 2024

Caledon Estate 2023 Pinot Noir

 

An impressive wine from a new business based in the Coal River Valley outside Hobart. Caledon is a family vineyard outside of the hamlet of Richmond and its grapes are vinified by Matt Wood at Spring Vale on Tasmania's east coast. This is a wine of lovely balance, weighing in at just 13.5% alcohol, that is ready for immediate enjoyment - perhaps with roast turkey. The Stewart family planted 11 hectares of vines in 2019 and they are clearly thriving. This is dangerously drinkable with currant and red cherry aromas leading to a medium-bodied palate with red fruits and apple crispness. Immediately approachable. Certainly a name to watch out for. $50. https://www.caledonestate.com.au/  

Friday, 13 December 2024

Josef Chromy NV Tasmanian Cuveé

Looking for a quality cool-climate sparkling wine for the festive season? Here's one that offers excellent value from the Josef Chromy estate at Relbia, just down the road from Launceston Airport. There is plenty of freshness and vibrancy here, making it a good choice for a party, but also an interesting flavour profile that would suit being paired with hors d'oeuvres. Think green apple, citrus and hints of toasty/brioche notes. Made from pinot noir (57%), chardonnay (42%) and a dash of pinot meunier and pinot gris, all grown on the estate. Available online at josefchromy.com.au, at cellar door or at selected BWS and Dan Murphy’s stores. $35.

Friday, 6 December 2024

Spring Vale 2024 Rosé


Spring Vale is home to one of the loveliest cellar doors of Tasmania's east coast, and to some of the best-value wines on the island. This one is an ideal choice of serving chilled over summer, with a picnic, or a vegetarian platter, or just because. The grapes are grown on the estate property that has been owned by the same family since 1870. This is pale salmon pink in colour with bright lifted aromatics and a refreshing dry finish with hints of tropical fruits and a crunchy texture, savoury notes and bright minerally acid on the palate. A fun wine that is perfect for quaffing after work. $32. https://www.springvalewines.com/

Friday, 29 November 2024

Broad Arrow 2023 Pinot Gris

 

Broad Arrow wines are made from fruit grown at the Spikey Bridge vineyard, south of Launceston, and the label has a cellar door at the Clarendon Arms Hotel in nearby Evandale. Production is small, but this is an impressive savoury white, midway in style between pinot gris and pinot grigio. The wines are made by the talented Jeremy Dineen, for many years the chief winemaker at Josef Chromy. Think pear and stone fruit flavours with some brisk acidity on the finish. One for drinking sooner rather than later to enjoy the fruit characters. $32. https://broadarrowwines.com.au/ 


Friday, 22 November 2024

Small Wonder 2023 Auburn Pinot Noir

Tasmania is arguably Australia's best source of quality cool-climate pinot noir with Small Wonder, previously known as Goaty Hill, among the most consistent producers. The wines are made by Andrew Trio, and this, and its sibling chardonnay, mark the first new label released by Small Wonder since the opening of its new winery in Kayena on the western ridge of the Tamar Valley in January. A vineyard en route to organic certification has produced a wine that is both stylish and savoury, thanks to some astutely judged use of French oak. An excellent example of quality Tassie pinot. $52. www.smallwonderwines.com.au



Friday, 15 November 2024

Westella 2023 Pinot Noir

 

Westella is the side hustle of well-known Tasmanian wine identity Willy Adkins and his wife Jacq. They grow pinot noir, and only pinot, at their small family vineyard at Rowella at the northern end of the Tamar Valley, producing sparkling wines, rosé and this very impressive table pinot that is singing in its youth. It is beautifully poised, impressively balanced and definitely varietal. So think quality cool-climate pinot at optimum ripeness. Three different clones are co-fermented and given a short time in French oak barriques. This paired impressively with rabbit cacciatore and is great value at around $45https://westellavineyard.com.au/     

Friday, 8 November 2024

Puddleduck 2024 Fumé Blanc

 

Darren and Jackie Brown started Puddleduck with a focus on sparkling wine (Bubbleduck) back in 2003 but now produce a full suite of table wines, nearly all of which are sold direct from their popular cellar door in the Coal River Valley just outside Hobart. This is a lovely choice for serving chilled on a summer day, a refreshing, nuanced fumé style that saw estate-grown sauvignon blanc grapes matured for six months in older French oak to add texture without detracting from the bright fruit. There is impressive vibrancy on offer here with lashings of tropical fruit flavours. Pair with a picnic, or fish and chips. $45. https://www.puddleduck.com.au/   

Friday, 1 November 2024

Pressing Matters 2024 Pinot Noir Rosé

Here is a delicious wine for spring and summer from a Tasmanian producer with two estate vineyard sites and a total of 12 hectares just outside Richmond in the Coal River Valley. The Melick family has built a formidable reputation for both its rieslings and pinot noirs. This is a rosé with real vibrancy and crunchy lift made from 100% estate pinot noir grapes. Pale and aromatic with wild strawberry/rose petal notes on the nose, the palate has grapefruit, green apple and pomegranate zing. Plenty of length here; plenty of appeal. Serve lightly chilled. $43. https://pressingmatters.com.au/

Friday, 25 October 2024

Stargazer 2023 Palisander Riesling

 

Not only is this one of the most fascinating rieslings in Australia, it is also one of the most delicious. So much palate interest, so much drinkability. Made from grapes grown on winemaker Sam Connew's Palisander estate vineyard north of Hobart, this was fermented in ceramic and concrete eggs and then left on lees for 10 months. The result is delightfully herbal, floral and dry with citrus, sherbet and lightly spicy purity on the palate. It is a wine full of drive and energy with bright acidity and hints of sea spray on the finish. Pair with Vietnamese spring rolls, or a fresh green salad. $50. https://stargazerwine.com.au/ 


Friday, 18 October 2024

Delamere 2024 Flyleaf Pinot Gris

 

Delamere duo Fran Austin and Shane Holloway produce some of Tasmania's most-acclaimed wines; from setellar sparklers to high-end table wines. What is less well known is that they also have a "value" range, Flyleaf, made from grower fruit sourced from around the state that offers a taste of the island state at an accessible price point. This new release is a case in point, It's fresh and vibrant, textural, unoaked, food-friendly and ready for immediate enjoyment with its pear/ginger/citrus elements and bright acidity more akin to grigio. A lovely bright wine for summer quaffing. $40https://www.delamerevineyards.com.au/    

Saturday, 12 October 2024

42 South 2024 Pinot Noir

 

If you like your pinots young, fresh and vibrant and ready for immediate enjoyment you've come to the right place.  This entry level wines from Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau offer a whole lot of bang for your buck. A brand-new release made from estate-grown Coal River Valley fruit, this is perfect for enjoying lightly chilled on a spring day. It is fresh and vibrant with classic cool-climate pinot characters; nicely poised with red cherry flavours to the fore and there is no need top cellar this - it is probably best enjoyed in its youth with a salumi platter, or a picnic. $32.  https://www.frogmorecreek.com.au/

Friday, 4 October 2024

Moores Hill 2024 Pinot Rosé

 

There are surprisingly few pinot rosés made in Tasmania. It simply makes economic sense that most of the fruit either goes towards sparkling wines, or table pinots. The few rosés made from pinot noir offer some delightful summer drinking. This one is from a consistently excellent small producer in the Tamar Valley and returns after not being made in 2023. It turned out that a 0.3 hectare block of pinot noir located in front of the winery proved ideal for making rosé with bright strawberry and red fruit flavours and lively acid on the finish. Aromatic, crisp and best enjoyed chilled. $35. https://www.mooreshill.com.au/

Thursday, 26 September 2024

Corryton Burge 2019 Martha Mae Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay



There are several mainland brands now opting to use fruit from Tasmania for their premium sparkling wines, ensuring cool-climate purity and elegance. The Barossa-based Burge family's new label has released this stylish Tasmanian pinot noir/chardonnay blend as a tribute to great grandmother Martha Mae. It has been aged for three years on lees before release and is fresh and vibrant, with citrus and green apple notes, but also elegant with an energetic mousse. Well-priced and very food friendly. $45. https://www.corrytonburge.com/sparkling-collection/ 

Thursday, 19 September 2024

Pooley 2024 Gewurztraminer

 

I had a sneak peak at the Pooley 2024 whites and rosé releases earlier this week, and fans are in for a treat. The quality is excellent across the board. There are only a handful of gewurztraminer wines made in Tasmania's and this is up there with the best - and a perfect foil for a lightly-spiced Thai stir fry. This is made from 40-year-old vines located in the north of the state - and exception in a range where most wines are made from Coal River Valley fruit. Fermented in stainless steel with three months on lees, this has 7.5gl of sweetness but finishes crisp and lively with classic rose petal, pear and Turkish Delight/musky elements. Enjoy young and chilled. $42. www.pooleywines.com.au

Thursday, 12 September 2024

Stoney Rise 2023 Trousseau

Joe Holyman enjoys marching to the beat of a different drum with his minimal intervention winemaking, as is evidenced by this, the only wine made from the trousseau grape in Tasmania. Holyman planted the vines at his Tamar Valley site nine years ago and makes a very appealing lighter red that can be enjoyed chilled over summer. Trousseau originates from the Jura region in eastern France and is also known as bastardo and merenzao. It is a close relative of the white grape savagnin, which Holyman also grows, and produces wines that are cherry red with high-acid, very bright and attention grabbing minerality. Matured in amphorae, this is lively, juicy, gluggable and just 12% alcohol. Such fun. Give it a whirl. $40. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Thursday, 5 September 2024

Giant Steps 2023 Coal River Valley Pinot Noir

 


This is the only wine in Giant Steps'  single vineyard collection that is not made from Yarra Valley fruit. Grapes from two small portions of the Nocton Vineyard in the Coal River Valley are handpicked and loaded onto a refrigerated container parked by the vines. The fruit is then driven to Devonport, put on a ferry and delivered to the winery in Healesville the next morning for Mel Chester and her winemaking team. The clay soil produces pinots that are floral and elegant with minerality and serious poise. A wine with concentrated power, subtle French oak and some benchmark bright acid. Enjoy now, or cellar for up to a decade. $100. www.giantstepswine.com.au   

Friday, 30 August 2024

Bream Creek Vineyard NV Brut Rosé

 


Bream Creek's wines are excellent across the board -and this one found favour with my tasting group for both quality and value. Recently disgorged, this is has plenty of vivacious appeal as the weather starts to get a bit warmer. Pale salmon in colour, it has a fresh berry nose leading to a lively mousse and strawberry notes with hints of dry biscuit on the palate. There is a brisk, dry acid finish, making this a perfect aperitif style and a good match for seafood (think oysters or pan-fried flathead). Enjoy well chilled over spring or summer. $42. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/  

Friday, 23 August 2024

Glaetzer-Dixon 2021 Mon Pere Shiraz

 

Just a generation ago, the idea of world-class shiraz from Tasmania would have been laughable. Too cold, for starters. Then a new generation of growers and winemakers, aided by global warming, began pushing the boundaries with cool-climate shiraz. At the vanguard was former Barossa boy Nick Glaetzer, who won a Jimmy Watson Trophy for the 2010 vintage of this wine, named in honour of his father, renowned winemaker Colin.Glaetzer.  This is made from fruit grown in the Upper Derwent Valley, north of Hobart, and is very Rhone in style. It has just the right balance between juicy fruit and textural interest. There are spicy elements and the merest hint of funk. The wine has been aged in 30% new oak barrels. Seriously stylish. $70. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

Thursday, 15 August 2024

Kate Hill 2023 Four Winds Estate Chardonnay

 

Kate Hill's chardonnays are a much in-demand commodity. The previous vintage sold out quick smart, leaving cellar door customers disappointed for several months. The new vintage release is 100% from the estate vineyard, which sits on a hillside in the Huon Valley with dramatic views. The fruit spent 10 months in oak, producing a classic cool-climate chardonnay with white stone fruit flavours, crisp minerality and deft hints of nutty oak. Give it some time to breathe and it is even more impressive. Pair with roast pork and crackling. $45. www.katehillwinenes.com.au.   

Thursday, 8 August 2024

Holm Oak 2024 Pinot Gris

 

Freshness, vibrancy, complexity. This new release pinot gris from Holm Oak in the Tamar Valley ticks a lot of boxes for lovers of aromatic whites. The flavour profile is aided and abetted by 10% of the juice being fermented in older oak barrels and 10% undergoing wild fermentation in tank. The palate has distinctive pear characters to the fore, with some varietal musk notes.. There is plenty of flavour here, but the wine finishes with brisk acidity. A seriously delicious wine for immediate enjoyment. Pair with an Asian seafood dish or for maximum enjoyment. $32. www.holmkoakvineyards.com.au      


Thursday, 1 August 2024

Holyman 2022 Chardonnay


Joe and Lou Holyman always seem to be having such fun when you visit their excellent Stoney Rise cellar door in the Tamar Valley. When it comes to winemaking, however, Joe is deadly serious about quality. This is an outstanding example of cool-climate chardonnay: lean and pinpoint accurate with a nod to flinty minerality and hints of gun smoke. The fruit is 100% estate grown from 36-year-old non irrigated vines. It has seen 100% new oak but the quality fruit has soaked it up. Delightful wine. Its 2022 Pinot Noir counterpart is equally impressive. $60. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Thursday, 25 July 2024

Evenfall 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Tasmania's cool climate means you don't see many cabernets from the island state - it is a hard grape to get ripe and needs just the right site. This comes from a relatively new producer in the Tamar Valley - based at what used to be the Elmslie in Legana. It is extremely impressive - as you'd expect from accomplished consultant winemaker Liam McElhinney - very composed, cohesive and stylish. I also tried a chardonnay and a pinot noir from the same producer and all three were impressive. Definitely a name to watch. $48. https://evenfall.au/ 

Thursday, 18 July 2024

Bream Creek 2023 Pinot Noir

 

There are few wine producers that offer consistent quality and value as does Bream Creek, tucked away on Tasmania's Tasman Peninsula. Vigneron Fred Peacock and his team have conjured a classic cool-climate estate pinot that's made in pretty small volumes. Vibrant red fruits dominate the bouquet and on the palate, where there is a youthful vibe and subtle spice hints. This would pair well with roast chicken, quail and other poultry dishes. Also check out the darker, more intense and cellar-worthy 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir ($70). This one is $50 and offers a lot of immediate drinking pleasure. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.

Thursday, 11 July 2024

Sinapius 2023 Gruner Veltliner

 

Sinapius may be one of the smaller wine producers in Tasmania but Linda Morice is making some mighty wines from her close-planted hilltop vineyard at Pipers River. This is a super-impressive take on the Austrian grape variety gruner veltliner. which would seem well suited to Tasmanian conditions but is still surprisingly rare. This is a beautifully composed wine that manages to combine silky elegance with textural elements. Wild ferment and full malolactic fermentation have produced a wine full of interest. This is simultaneously floral, fruity, spicy and minerally. Lots of intensity, lots of length and lots of drinking pleasure here. $42. www.sinapius.com.au    


Thursday, 4 July 2024

Henskens Rankin of Tasmania 2016 Brut Rosé

 

Another hugely impressive new release from Frieda Henskens and David Rankin, Tasmania's garagiste producers of quality traditional method sparkling wines. This is one of just 451 bottles made of this wonderfully expressive rosé bubbly that has benefited from extended time on lees, building complexity while managing to retain freshness. It is a multi-regional blend of fruit from the Coal River Valley and Pipers River with chardonnay (69%)the dominant grape variety. I loved the vibrancy in this salmon coloured wine with its evocative nose and a palate with notes of red fruits, sherbert, tangy pink grapefruit and ripe tangerine. There's a lot of length here, and some minerality on the finish. Pair with shellfish dishes and serve cool, but not cold. $105. https://henskensrankin.com/   

Thursday, 27 June 2024

Hughes & Hughes 2024 Rosé

 

This brand-new release is a delightfully food-friendly rosé from the Hughes brothers of Mewstone fame; an impressive savoury drink that will star when the sun is shining a little more. The problem is, however, that many wines from this stable sell out within months, so it may all be sold by summer. Move quick. This is - confoundingly for those who have been told that rosés are not a mix of red and white grapes - a blend of syrah, tempranillo and chardonnay from both the south and north-west  of Tasmania, barrel fermented with wild yeasts and matured in tank (for just a few weeks). It is unfined, unfiltered and very delicious. Fewer than 800 cases were made. Pair this with a Lebanese mezze plate and chill - but not too much. $35. https://www.mewstonewines.com.au/hugheshughes-wines    

Thursday, 20 June 2024

Wines by Aunt Alice 2023 Ocean Chardonnay

 
So you love Chablis, but want to drink Tasmanian? Former Norfolk Rise and Karatta winemaker Alice Davidson, now based at Franklin in the Huon Valley, has the answer. Now a negociant/producer, Davidson uses grower fruit from across Tasmania to produce wines that are both edgy and delicious. The range also includes an unusual, but beguiling, oaked riesling and a whole-bunch driven pinot noir, but this is the star of the show for me; pure, focused and fruit-driven chardonnay. It is made from Tamar Valley fruit, hand-picked and barrel fermented with 15% new oak, a small portion of malo, and bottled unfined. But forget all that. It is, quite simply, a bloody lovely drink. Close to sold out, so be very quick. $50. https://www.auntalice.com.au/


Thursday, 13 June 2024

Glaetzer-Dixon Family Winemakers 2021 Reveur Pinot Noir


Here is a serious, cellar-worthy pinot noir for those who enjoy their red wines with intensity and complexity. A blend of fruit from two Coal River Valley vineyards, it is dark and composed with plummy and black cherry characters front and centre with some classic cool-climate spice notes and some restrained oak influence. This is a finely poised wine, impressively balanced, that can be enjoyed in the short term, or benefit from 5-10 years of cellaring. $56. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/

Thursday, 6 June 2024

Holm Oak 2023 The Wizard Chardonnay


So you like your chardonnays with complexity and texture? You’ve come to the right place. This is the top of the range chardonnay from Tamar Valley producers Holm Oak - and it really hits the mark for anyone looking for an elegant but full-flavoured chardy. Barrel fermentation with 66% new oak and 100% wild fermentation, followed by two-thirds malo has given this plenty of oomph while retaining varietal character. More on the stone fruit side of the spectrum with some appealing herbal notes and vanilla oak making an impact without intruding. From a very good vintage for quality, this would pair well with shellfish dishes, or perhaps a creamy seafood risotto. $65. https://www.holmoakvineyards.com.au/

Thursday, 30 May 2024

Delamere 2022 Block 8 Pinot Noir

 

This is the flagship pinot noir in Delamere's impressive range - and undoubtedly one of the best in Tasmania. Wife and husband team Fran Austin and Shane Holloway craft some exquisite estate wines from their vineyards at Pipers Brook in the north of the state. This has varietal character, complexity and impressive structure, along with a big dollop of yum. The Block wines - there is also an impressive 2022 Block 3 Chardonnay - come from the best two or three barriques of each vintage. This is made from 40+ year old vines with 30% whole bunch adding textural feel. There were only 600 bottles made, so it will be the quick and the thirsty who will be lucky, even at $135 a bottle. www.delamerevineyards.com.au     

Thursday, 23 May 2024

Five Bob 2022 Pinot Noir

 

Five Bob is the newest label in the fast-emerging d'Entrecasteaux region south of Hobart. New vineyards were planted in 2018 to the two varieties that shine in southern Tasmania; pinot noir and chardonnay, along with some pinot gris and riesling. This has an appealing youthful energy to it, with vibrant varietal characters and plenty of vim and vigour. Five Bob is located at Birchs Bay and the wines are made - in tiny quantities - just down the road at Mewstone by talented Jonny Hughes. Think 20% whole bunch, gently pressed, and aged in seasoned French oak. Unfiltered and unfined, Only 780 bottles made. One for drinking in its youth, I think, and it paired well with lamb burgers and Mediterranean vegetables. $45..https://fivebob.com.au/

Thursday, 16 May 2024

Glaetzer Dixon Family Winemakers 2023 Überblanc


Überblanc is winemaker Nick Glaetzer's Tasmanian tribute to the elegant style of rieslings made in Pfalz region of Germany - an area he worked in while learning his craft. Glaezter, who works from an urban winery in Hobart (visit if you get the chance), is best known for his red wines, but this has a cult following for its crisp but textural appeal. It is beautifully balanced with lees treatment adding to the mouthfeel and structure. Think citrus; think minerality, think immediate drinking pleasure. The fruit is a blend of 70% Tamar Valley from the north of Tasmania and 30% from the Coal River Valley outside Hobart. $30 each by the dozen from the webiste. We paired this with seared tuna and aubergine. It worked a treat. https://www.gdfwinemakers.com/ 

Thursday, 9 May 2024

Holm Oak 2023 Chardonnay

 

Looking for a vivacious, cool-climate chardonnay that is very food friendly? You've come to the right place. Husband and wife team Tim and Bec Duffy have come up with the goods with this new-release Tamar Valley chardonnay that offers a lot of immediate drinking pleasure. Like most Tassie chardonnays, this is elegant and high in natural acidity. There is nice balance between lemon and white stone fruit characters while French oak and natural ferment are key elements in creating palate interest, along with partial malo and occasional lees stirring. There is youthful drive while the finish is driven by brisk acidity. Pair with poultry dishes for max pleasure. $40. www.holmoakvineyards.co.au

Thursday, 2 May 2024

Stefano Lubiana 2022 La Roccia Pinot Noir


Stefano, Monique and Marco Lubiana are at the vanguard of organic and biodynamic winemaking in Tasmania. This is one of a trio of individual site pinots they release annually to demonstrate the difference that can exist between grapes grown on three different blocks, all within 500 metres of each other. This compellingly nuanced pinot is made from fruit grown on terra rossa soil with limestone chalk on their estate at Granton, north of Hobart and overlooking the River Derwent. It is a serious wine with plenty of depth of flavour and definite stony minerality. All three wines - the others are the Rusecllo and Il Giardino - are made using 100% whole bunch and wild ferment before being gravity filled into large format, mainly older, French oak. Unfined, unfiltered and deserving of at least five years in the cellar. $110. slw.com.au      

Thursday, 25 April 2024

Moores Hill 2022 Pinot Noir

 



Solar-powered Moores Hill is a popular stop-off for anyone visiting the Tamar Valley with a cellar door that has great vineyard views and wines that offer good value for money. This is one of the rare pinots from Tasmania that sells for under $40. Pinot noir is a fickle, demanding grape and most Tasmanian producers are extremely small scale operations. This is a classic cool-climate pinot with cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavours to the fore with just a hint of pepper/spice. Soft, easy drinking is on offer here with 30% new French oak, gentle plunging, 12 months maturation and vegan fining completing the package. Undemanding and serious fun. $40. https://www.mooreshill.com.au/

Thursday, 18 April 2024

Kate Hill 2022 Sauvignon Blanc


This is a sauvignon blanc for people who might not be fans of the variety. I occasionally help out at Kate Hill's cellar door and find it appeals to a lot of folk who initially say: "I'll pass on the sauvignon blanc". With definite tropical fruit notes rather than green/herbaceous characters, it is a lovely wine for enjoying on the porch after work, or with a late-season picnic. The wine spent six months in aged oak barrels, so could legitimately be labelled as fumé blanc. Time in bottle has given it a bright but rounded finish. One of only a few savvy blancs in Tasmania and worth checking out. Serve well chilled. $33. www.katehillwines.com.au





Thursday, 11 April 2024

Frogmore Creek NV Ruby Pinot Noir

 



Given it is consistently the coolest wine growing region in Australia, Tasmania is not noted for its fortified wines. It is, in fact, surprising that a winter warmer like this exists at all. Winemakers Alain Rousseau and John Bown have crafted a drink that is ideal for enjoying in front of the fire on a cold Tasmanian winter evening. With 114 grams of residual sugar, this has Christmas cake and toffee notes. 100% pinot was fortified with premium brandy spirit and enjoyed extended barrel maturation using the Solera system over a 10-year period. $40 for 500ml.

Thursday, 4 April 2024

Stargazer 2023 Riesling

 

Sam Connew's wine journey has taken her from New Zealand to McLaren Vale, the Hunter Valley and now Tasmania, where she is crafting outstanding wines from both her Coal River estate vineyard and some grower fruit. The 2023 vintage was a difficult one but several Stargazer releases shine, including this one, made from a grape that can produce outstanding wines in Tasmania but is often overshadowed by chardonnay and pinot noir. This single-vineyard release from Tea Tree has some apple and Asian fruit characters alongside the classic citrus notes and finishes with lively acidity and freshness and a hint of fruit sweetness. Wild ferment adds a textural element and there is plenty of length here. Pair with Thai or Korean dishes. $36https://www.stargazerwine.com.au/

Thursday, 28 March 2024

Chartley Estate 2023 Chardonnay

 

Chartley Estate is a small family-owned vineyard on the west bank of the Tamar River that is producing fruit of a very high quality. The talented Peter Dredge is on board as consultant winemaker, ensuring the wines are full of interest. The chardonnays, in particular, tend to sell out quick smart, and that is no surprise. This is medium-bodied and immediately approachable with French oak playing a minor support role on a palate where white stone fruit flavours are the driving force. There's plenty of length here, excellent drive and lots of enjoyment. Look for it in retail as supplies are low. $40. https://chartleyestatevineyard.com.au/ 

Thursday, 21 March 2024

Josef Chromy 2023 Pinot Gris

 

I tried this a few months ago and enjoyed it. Tried it again at a function earlier this month and it had really come together as a deliciously cohesive drink that sits midway between pinot gris and pinot grigio stylistically. It proved an excellent match with finger food on a sunny day. Winemaker Ockie Myburgh has conjured up a cool-climate white with an edgy vivacity that has notes of stone fruit, green apple and subtle spices. It finishes fresh and clean and is definitely best enjoyed chilled. A terrific midweek choice. The Chromy cellar door and restaurant at Relbia, just down the road from Launceston Airport, is also well worth a visit. $36. https://josefchromy.com.au/ 

Thursday, 14 March 2024

Frogmore Creek 2023 Chardonnay

French-born Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau has a natural affinity with the chardonnay grape, as is evidenced by his excellent new release I tasted through distributors Red & White. Made from chardonnay sustainably grown in the cool Coal River Valley, this spent 10 months in oak - no malo - and was released unfined to retain maximum character. This has some lovely, lively fresh white stone fruit flavours allied to some hazelnut characters and bright and breezy natural acid. It made a very amiable partner for a grilled pork chop. Terrific value. $38. https://www.frogmorecreek.com.au/  

Saturday, 9 March 2024

Apogee Alto 2022 Pinot Noir


Over several decades in the Tasmanian wine industry, pioneering winemaker Andrew Pirie has always taken his craft very seriously. Pirie's obsession with minutiae means that his wines are always seriously good - as is the case with this new-release pinot noir from his tiny vineyard at Lebrina in the north of state. This is a classic,  aromatic and intellectual cool-climate pinot with layers of flavour across the palate. There are multiple textural elements in a wine which is already appealing, but I suspect will reward medium-term cellaring. Classic red fruit flavours lead the way here along with some gentle forest floor funk and soft but obvious acidity on the finish. French oak barrique maturation has added style and substance. Pirie suggests pairing with roast chicken, I went with roast lamb en croute. $65https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Thursday, 29 February 2024

Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir

There are boutique wines, and there are boutique wines. They don't get much more niche than the Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir - released this week from a one-hectare, pinot-only vineyard at Middleton in Tasmania's far south. This is so niche that only 50 cases were produced, so it might pay to be swiftly off the mark for this darkly coloured pinot with its dark cherry flavours and bright, crunchy acid on the palate; a wine that is full of youthful verve. It is made from vines that are now over 20 years old, grown on a hillside with views of Bruny Island. $45. https://www.resolutionvineyard.com.au/

Thursday, 22 February 2024

Stoney Rise 2022 Pinot Noir

 


It is hard nowadays to find a decent bottle of Tasmanian pinot noir for under $50. Production costs are high, most producers are small scale, and demand has rocketed over the past few years. Thank goodness, then, for Joe Holyman and his Stoney Rise label, which offers value with a capital V.  There is immediate drinking pleasure on offer here with a pinot made from a blend of 85% estate and 15% grower fruit. You don't need to think too much about this one; it is effortlessly drinkable with plenty of bright red fruit flavours and impressive drive. Maturation in old oak puncheons has added palate interest. The 2023 vintage has just been released but there should still be some 2022 in retail. $35. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Thursday, 15 February 2024

Apogee Deluxe 2020 Vintage Rosé

 


Andrew Pirie has been at the pinnacle of winemaking in Tasmania for five decades and even though he has tiny production numbers under his Apogee label, his wines are always worth looking out for. This is an outstanding recent release sparkling rosé with impressive aromas of florals, red berries and flint leading on to a palate this is pure, delicate and dry. This is a blend of : 75% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier that finishes mid-weight and flavoursome with what Pirie describes as a finishing "citrus tang". A perfect partner for poultry dishes. $82. https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Thursday, 8 February 2024

Bream Creek 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir


You can choose just about any Bream Creek wine to review: the quality is excellent across the board. From a purely selfish point of view I wish I had not opened this one, however. It is going to be even better in 4-5 years if you have the patience to cellar it. It is a powerful, concentrated cool-climate pinot that it is still a way from its prime. The Bream Creek team choose just 10% of their best fruit in barrel for this reserve blend - and it is a ripper. Pair with Chinese roast duck or pork. $70. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Thursday, 1 February 2024

Craigie Knowe 2021 White Label Sparkling Rosé

This is summer in a bottle: a pale, fun but elegant rosé that delivers plenty of flavour and refreshment when served well chilled. It was one of the standouts at a Red & White trade tasting this week. It comes from a family-owned and -operated wine producer that was a pioneer on the East Coast of Tasmania 45 years ago. It is delicate, crisp and dry with strawberry and redcurrant flavours on the palate. Perfect as a aperitif, or perhaps paired with a prawn cocktail or seafood platter. $50. https://craigieknowe.com.au/ 


Thursday, 25 January 2024

Josef Chromy 2023 Pinot Gris



Tasmania produces such outstanding sparkling wines, and table pinot noirs and chardonnays, that other varieties tend to sit in their shadows. Pinot gris is one such example, with this offering delightful aromas and textures from a winery that should be on the radar of any wine lover visiting Tasmania with its excellent cellar door and on-site restaurant. Think melon and stone/tropical fruit notes, a hint of spice and plenty of summer refreshment. Made 100% from fruit grown in the north of Tasmania, this can be paired with anything from dim sums to spicy Portuguese chicken. $35. josefchromy.com.au


Thursday, 18 January 2024

Domaine A 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

This is definitely not what most wine lovers would expect from a Tasmanian red. It's made from cabernet sauvignon for heaven's sake. It is 10 years old and still on sale through cellar door. And it is a triumph for lovers of classic Bordeaux-style wines, a tribute to the foresight of the late Peter Althaus who realised that his little hotspot vineyard in the Coal River Valley could enable grape varieties like cabernet and merlot to shine on the Apple Isle. This is a mature textural and savoury wine, certainly, but it retains intensity and style alongside its secondary characters. Made with minimal intervention, this spent 30 months in French oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. It was brilliant with a chunk of Red Leicester cheese. $115. https://domaine-a.com.au/