One Monkey 2019 Here Comes A Freight Train Pinot Noir

 

Bushfires in 2019 meant Paul and Gilli Lipscombe from Sailor Seeks Horse in the Huon Valley were unable to produce their usual stellar pinots and chardonnays because of smoke taint. So they cast their net for fruit a little wider, called on the help of friends within the industry and launched two wines using bought-in fruit from the north of the state under the One Monkey label. The fruit for this savoury number comes from Bird vineyard (48%) in Pipers River, owned by Pipers Brook, with the balance coming from Joe Holyman’s new block (21%), Goaty Hill (18%), Ghost Rock (11%) and Clover Hill (2%). Partial whole bunch adds texture and palate interest. $50. https://sailorseekshorse.com.au/

Pooley 2021 Pinot Grigio

 

With summer fast approaching lovers of fresh, crisp grigios will want to get their hands on a bottle or two of this new release from one of the best family wine producers in Tasmania. This lively young Coal River Valley wine is impressively floral on the nose with nashi pear and granny smith apple flavours on the palate, along with fresh acidity and hints of pebbly minerality and an attractive candle wax texture. This is long, lean and lovely and would pair with a mushroom quiche or a roasted chicken dish. $36. www.pooleywines.com.au/

Tolpuddle 2020 Pinot Noir

 

The Tolpuddle vineyard in the Coal River Valley has long been regarded as one of the finest vineyards in Tasmania, producing chardonnay and pinot noir fruit of exceptional quality. For the past few years the vines have been under the care of the team from Adelaide Hills standout Shaw+Smith, and the wines have never looked better. This is a brand-new release, but already in short supply. It has a beguiling bouquet and is medium-bodied with some hints of spice and lovely pure fruit, along with youthful vibrancy. One for a special occasion. $95. www.tolpuddlevineyard.com/

Charles Rueben Estate 2019 Cabernet Rosé

Charles Reuben Estate is a family-owned vineyard and micro distillery, tucked away at Tea Tree in the Coal River Valley, just a short drive from Hobart. There is also an on-site bed and breakfast option - The Pinot Cottage. The 2019 vintage was a difficult one in Tasmania, but this has come up well; without too much intrusive acid. It is fragrant and has brisk but balanced acidity along with some savoury notes on the palate, which has a tangy sweet and sour/cranberry and apple peel vibe going on. Drink soon, well chilled. $29. https://charlesreuben.com.au/  

Frogmore Creek 2020 Chardonnay

 

Given Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau's French history, it should come as no surprise that this delicious Coal River Valley chardonnay could be mistaken for a Macon of Cote Chalonnaise when tasted blind. Purity and vibrancy are the hallmarks here in a genuine cool-climate wine with white stone fruit flavours to the fore with just a smidgen of hazelnutty oak characters in a key support role.  Minimal intervention, lees contact but no malolactic fermentation. Textural and well balanced; serious but fun. $38. https://frogmorecreek.com.au/

Domaine A 2018 Lady A Sauvignon Blanc

 

And now for something completely different. This Coal River Valley sauvignon blanc does not taste like any other savvv b that you've sampled. For a start, it is released at three years of age, and it is more savoury than fruity. Originally made as a tribute to the white wines of Bordeaux, this is a serious white wine, so serious that it probably deserves a philosophy degree. In the olden days it would have been labelled fumé blanc because it sees a fair whack of new French oak. It's made from fruit grown on a single hectare black at the Stoney Vineyard with 30-year-old vines. It is tight, taut, textural and just a little funky. It deserves to be enjoyed with food; particularly poultry dishes. $66. https://domaine-a.com.au/

Josef Chromy 2019 Block 103 Pinot Noir

 

Tasmanians are spoilt for choice when it comes to high-quality pinot noirs but this limited-edition release is a serious head turner. Impeccably balanced, it is among the finest pinots the state has produced, and is worth every cent of the apparently hefty price tag. Unfined, unfiltered and bursting with quality fruit - sourced from one of the best blocks on Chromy's Relbia estate - and subdued oak, this is still very youthful with dark berry and cherry notes and poised spice characters. Long, textural and hugely impressive in its completeness. 96 points from me. $120. www.josefchromy.com.au