From an exceptional vintage in Tasmania, this is the first family reserve pinot noir from the Dunbabin family at Swansea on the East Coast. A small parcel of fruit from (relatively) old vines was put away for mature release and the end result is an absolute ripper. I don't expect to see many pinots better than this over the next 12 months; it is still young at almost five years of age, intensely flavoured but soft and silky with rich, sweet, dark fruit notes and plenty of length. The family reserve wines are only released in special vintages and this is certainly a special occasion wine with 40% whole bunch in the pressings and time in quality oak. Poised and elegant with hints of earthy sophistication. Only 34 cases were made so speed is of the essence.
$65. www.miltonvineyard.com.au.
Joe Holyman, former first-class wicketkeeper turned winemaker, is an eccentric and an iconoclast. From his natural wine, known as "Brian", to Tasmania's only version of the Austrian white grape variety gruner veltliner, Holyman's wines can be relied upon to challenge and entertain. This is the sixth gruner release from his Tamar Valley vines, unfined and unfiltered, a little off the wall but certainly well worth sampling. Think fresh lemon, rose petals, chicory and refreshment. Holyman recommends, tongue-in-cheek, pairing it with chicken pho or pork tacos. In fact, it is very versatile. He describes it as "the most gruner-like gruner we have made". $32. www.stoneyrise.com
There are two Tasmanian rieslings that usually stand out from the rest when matched with food; the Moores Hill Riesling and the Goaty Hill Riesling; sourced from vineyards just a few kilometres apart in the Tamar Valley. When I was a member of the judging panels for the Taste of Tasmania and Festivale, one of these two would invariably win the category. I am no longer a judge at either festival but the pair of them just keep notching up wins. One or the other. The 2016 from Goaty Hill is as good as ever; bright and shiny like a flashy new sports car with lemon/lime and grapefruit notes, effervescent floral characters and brisk, assertive acid. Pair this with oysters, crayfish or plain old flathead and chips and you have a winning combination. Outstanding. 94/100. $30. www.goatyhillwines.com.au.
On the bright and juicy side of the pinot spectrum with plenty of oomph, this has a lot to commend it. Emilia is a five-hectare family vineyard at Spreyton on the central north coast of Tasmania planted six years ago by Marcus and Gail Burns, who have spent a portion of their lives in Emilia-Romagna in Italy, hence the name of their farm. Fortunately, they realised that Tasmania is not suitable for Italian grape varieties and went with pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot gris. The vines are still young but they have talented consultants in Fran Austin and Shane Holloway. I liked this a lot - and clearly there is a lot of potential ahead. $38. www.emiliawines.com.au.
A wine for sipping and savouring rather than quaffing, this is a very classy and beautifully balanced chardonnay crafted by Shane Holloway and Fran Austin at Pipers River winery Delamere. It's made in a classic cool-climate style with wild ferment, partial malo and 10 months of lees stirring in Burgundian oak barrels adding complexity and interest without deflecting away from the purity and intensity of the fruit. Think citrus notes, hints of white peach, some smoky oak and bright acid, all delightfully poised and coming in at just 13% alcohol. Match with roast pork and crackling; or cheesy pasta dishes. $50. www.delamerevineyards.com.au.
The wines of Bream Creek have been enjoying a lot of success on the show circuit recently, thanks in large part to the attention paid by owner Fred Peacock to vineyard excellence. This delicious savoury rosé was rushed to market as the 2015 vintage had been sold out for several months. The fruit for this comes from one of the oldest vineyards in Tasmania, tucked away on the south-east coast. This is a super wine for summer enjoyment with lucious strawberries and cream notes, a dry finish and bright refreshing acid. Pair it with a Lebanese mezze platter. $28. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.
Yet another excellent wine from the talented team at Sinapius, at Pipers River, who keep turning out wines of quality and personality. I prefer this chardonnay, made using fruit from the winery block, to its sibling made from Tamar Valley fruit - although it is a close call. This is 100% estate grown from 20+ year-old vines, and newer close-planted stocks, and utilisies no fewer than eight different clones. The fruit was hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, fermented using wild yeast and underwent lees stirring and full malo, along with 10 months in French oak, one- third new. Enticing floral aromas lead on to a pure, intensely-focused palate with citrus and stone fruit notes and delightful acidity. It's drinking brilliantly right now and would be brilliant with Asian-spiced pork belly. $50. www.sinapius.com.au.
