Joe Holyman, former first-class wicketkeeper turned winemaker, is an eccentric and an iconoclast. From his natural wine, known as "Brian", to Tasmania's only version of the Austrian white grape variety gruner veltliner, Holyman's wines can be relied upon to challenge and entertain. This is the sixth gruner release from his Tamar Valley vines, unfined and unfiltered, a little off the wall but certainly well worth sampling. Think fresh lemon, rose petals, chicory and refreshment. Holyman recommends, tongue-in-cheek, pairing it with chicken pho or pork tacos. In fact, it is very versatile. He describes it as "the most gruner-like gruner we have made". $32. www.stoneyrise.com
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