Here's a pinot noir with a real spring in its step. There's plenty of weight here but also some lively savoury notes. James Broinowski started by crowd-finding his first release but is now a decade into his winemaking career. This new release is made from fruit sourced from two different sites in the Coal River Valley just outside Hobart. Made in small batches at the Dr Island facility at Cambridge, this is midway between middleweight and light-heavyweight if you are a boxing fan. There is impressive structure here, just a lick of saltiness, and I suspect this will cellar for a few years. We paired it with steak, onion rings and salad - a very nice combo. $49. www.smallislandwines.com
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