Steve and Monique Lubiana have spent three decades working out the intricacies of various micro-sites in their Derwent Valley valley vineyard. The three wines in the single block pinot noir range have been selected for the way they reflect their specific soil types; a former market garden site (Il Giardino), a limestone rock shelf in the middle of the block (La Rocchia) and a block located alongside a small winter creek (Ruscello). For me the Ruscello is the winner in 2021, producing a very elegant, stylish pinot noir that shines with food. All the wines are grown and made biodynamically, organically and vegan friendly - the Lubianas were the first winery to be certified biodynamic in Tasmania. A fascinating exercise. $85. www.slw.com.au
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