Another winner from the Hughes brothers, who are among the shining lights of the wine industry in Tasmania. The Mewstone winery is at Tinderbox, south of Hobart, but this delicious young chardonnay is a blend of fruit from vineyards in the Coal River (Clarence House and Brinktop), Derwent Valley (Kinvarra) and the north-west (White Rock). It is 80% whole-bunch pressed, 20% cold-soaked on skins for five days, all naturally fermented in oak with partial malo and spent five months of lees. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered and is a thoroughly modern, lean and clean taste machine for enjoyment with perhaps a vegetable quiche or roast pork and all the trimmings. Serious satisfaction here. $37. www.mewstonewines.com.au/
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