Mewstone 2025 Riesling

 

This is a fun surprise; a way removed from your traditional dry riesling offer, but disarmingly slurpable and full of palate interest. It is made from grapes grown on Mewstone's dramatically beautiful estate vineyard overlooking the d'Entreasteaux Channel and Bruny Island in the far south of Tasmania by the Hughes brothers, who also make wines under the Hughes & Hughes label. Hand picked and whole bunch pressed to older French oak, the fruit spent 44 days fermenting slowly and was matured on lees, resulting in pure fruit flavours but more mouthfeel than in many of its Australian riesling siblings. $60. https://www.mewstonewines.com.au/       

Pirie Sparkling Vintage 2021

Named in recognition of Andrew Pirie, a pioneer of cool-climate viticulture in Tasmania, this is an outstanding example of the quality sparkling wines for which the island state has become recognised. Pirie now operates his own small bijou wine business, Apogee, but I suspect he would be very happy with the quality of this recent release: It is fresh, bright and elegant with precision and purity. Citrus and sea spray aromas lead on to a crisp palate that is fruit-forward with toasty/nutty characters in a support role. The finish is full of citrus peel vivacity. Pair with oysters or simple grilled fish dishes. The website shows this as being sold out, but there should still some in retail land.  $55. https://brownfamilywines.com.au/collections/brands-pirie

Holm Oak 2023 Shiraz

Shiraz from Tasmania? Yes. And a very good one, too. It certainly found favour with the members of one of my tasting groups last week. You won't confuse this with any of its blockbuster cousins from McLaren Vale or the Barossa: it is a very different beast with red fruit flavours to the fore, along with attractive pepper/spice elements that shine in well composed cooler-climate shirazes. This is from a family winery in the Tamar Valley and reminds me of an old armchair, soft, plush and comfortable. It is medium-bodied, ready to enjoy in its youth paired with anything from beef sausages to a Sunday roast. $50. https://holmoakvineyards.com.au/

Holm Oak 2025 Riesling

Tasmania gets a lot of attention for its stellar sparkling wines, as well as world-class chardonnays and pinots noir. What is often overlooked is that riesling can also thrive in the cool climes, much as it does in the Canberra region. This is a stellar cool-climate offering from a family-owned and -operated vineyard in the Tamar Valley in the north of the state. It is impressively floral with tangy citrus characters playing the lead role. There is plenty of lively acid on hand and this finishes dry with lots of length. We paired it with a hearty Toad in the Hole with braised leek, but it would also work well with seafood and poultry dishes. Very well priced at $32. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au.      

Sailor Seeks Horse 2023 Pinot Noir

 

Those in the know when it comes to cool-climate pinot noir have the name Sailor Seeks Horse in their notebooks. Paul and Gilli Lipscombe have built a formidable reputation for the quality of their estate wines grown at Cradoc in the Huon Valley. This is a pinot with impressive tension; there's a panoply of flavours on the palate, but aligned to a sense of calmness and cohesion. This a classic style with immediate appeal, along with medium-term cellaring potential. The balance between fruit and savoury characters and some grippy tannins make this beguilingly rustic. $70. https://www.sailorseekshorse.com.au/