Stefano Lubiana 2021 Ruscello Pinot Noir

Steve and Monique Lubiana have spent three decades working out the intricacies of various micro-sites in their Derwent Valley valley vineyard. The three wines in the single block pinot noir range have been selected for the way they reflect their specific soil types; a former market garden site (Il Giardino), a limestone rock shelf in the middle of the block (La Rocchia) and a block located alongside a small winter creek (Ruscello). For me the Ruscello is the winner in 2021, producing a very elegant, stylish pinot noir that shines with food. All the wines are grown and made biodynamically, organically and vegan friendly - the Lubianas were the first winery to be certified biodynamic in Tasmania. A fascinating exercise. $85. www.slw.com.au 

Moorilla 2017 Cloth Label White

This is something a little bit special from Conor van der Reest and the team at Moorilla. Stylish and complex on the palate, this is a blend of six grape varieties grown at the St Matthias vineyard in the north of Tasmania - and even includes some pinot noir to add palate interest. The field blend includes riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewurztraminer, pinot gris and 11% pinor noir, creating a wine that reflects the terroir rather than varietal characters. There is a rich palate thanks to some skin contact, but that is matched by some crisp acid. The wine was bottled in 2018 and has been maturing until its recent release. Buy one for now, and one for later. Just 161 cases were made. $75. www.moorilla.com.au     

Apogee 2022 Alto Pinot Gris

 

No one knows more about viticulture and winemaking in Tasmania than Andrew Pirie, who has launched several brands over the decades but now concentrates his efforts on his own tiny Apogee vineyard in the north of the state. This is consciously made in an Alsace pinot gris-style with a focus on a soft, dry, stylish and slightly creamy palate impact. It is textural and well-rounded thanks to a partial malolactic fermentation, but also very pleasurable with fragrant aromas on the nose, pear notes, minerality and a well-balanced palate structure that suggest medium-term cellaring will be rewarded. $47 www.apogeetasmania.com.au   

Henskens Rankin 2012 Vintage Brut

Since 2010, Frieda Henskens and David Rankin have been crafting tiny amounts of potentially long-lived sparkling wines made from tiny parcels of cool-climate Tasmanian fruit. These are not wines for everyone - but they are much in demand by aficionados with their rare blend of freshness and power. This is a blend of 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir and one of only 1400 bottles made. Each vintage spends a minimum of six years on yeast lees and are then further aged under cork. The fruit is sourced from across Tasmania: the Tasman Peninsula, Coal River Valley and Tamar Valley. A stylish sparkling wine for enjoying with friends .$95. https://henskensrankin.com/