Thursday 14 March 2024

Frogmore Creek 2023 Chardonnay

French-born Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau has a natural affinity with the chardonnay grape, as is evidenced by his excellent new release I tasted through distributors Red & White. Made from chardonnay sustainably grown in the cool Coal River Valley, this spent 10 months in oak - no malo - and was released unfined to retain maximum character. This has some lovely, lively fresh white stone fruit flavours allied to some hazelnut characters and bright and breezy natural acid. It made a very amiable partner for a grilled pork chop. Terrific value. $38. https://www.frogmorecreek.com.au/  

Saturday 9 March 2024

Apogee Alto 2022 Pinot Noir


Over several decades in the Tasmanian wine industry, pioneering winemaker Andrew Pirie has always taken his craft very seriously. Pirie's obsession with minutiae means that his wines are always seriously good - as is the case with this new-release pinot noir from his tiny vineyard at Lebrina in the north of state. This is a classic,  aromatic and intellectual cool-climate pinot with layers of flavour across the palate. There are multiple textural elements in a wine which is already appealing, but I suspect will reward medium-term cellaring. Classic red fruit flavours lead the way here along with some gentle forest floor funk and soft but obvious acidity on the finish. French oak barrique maturation has added style and substance. Pirie suggests pairing with roast chicken, I went with roast lamb en croute. $65https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Thursday 29 February 2024

Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir

There are boutique wines, and there are boutique wines. They don't get much more niche than the Resolution Vineyard 2023 Pinot Noir - released this week from a one-hectare, pinot-only vineyard at Middleton in Tasmania's far south. This is so niche that only 50 cases were produced, so it might pay to be swiftly off the mark for this darkly coloured pinot with its dark cherry flavours and bright, crunchy acid on the palate; a wine that is full of youthful verve. It is made from vines that are now over 20 years old, grown on a hillside with views of Bruny Island. $45. https://www.resolutionvineyard.com.au/

Thursday 22 February 2024

Stoney Rise 2022 Pinot Noir

 


It is hard nowadays to find a decent bottle of Tasmanian pinot noir for under $50. Production costs are high, most producers are small scale, and demand has rocketed over the past few years. Thank goodness, then, for Joe Holyman and his Stoney Rise label, which offers value with a capital V.  There is immediate drinking pleasure on offer here with a pinot made from a blend of 85% estate and 15% grower fruit. You don't need to think too much about this one; it is effortlessly drinkable with plenty of bright red fruit flavours and impressive drive. Maturation in old oak puncheons has added palate interest. The 2023 vintage has just been released but there should still be some 2022 in retail. $35. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Thursday 15 February 2024

Apogee Deluxe 2020 Vintage Rosé

 


Andrew Pirie has been at the pinnacle of winemaking in Tasmania for five decades and even though he has tiny production numbers under his Apogee label, his wines are always worth looking out for. This is an outstanding recent release sparkling rosé with impressive aromas of florals, red berries and flint leading on to a palate this is pure, delicate and dry. This is a blend of : 75% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay and 8% Pinot Meunier that finishes mid-weight and flavoursome with what Pirie describes as a finishing "citrus tang". A perfect partner for poultry dishes. $82. https://www.apogeetasmania.com/

Thursday 8 February 2024

Bream Creek 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir


You can choose just about any Bream Creek wine to review: the quality is excellent across the board. From a purely selfish point of view I wish I had not opened this one, however. It is going to be even better in 4-5 years if you have the patience to cellar it. It is a powerful, concentrated cool-climate pinot that it is still a way from its prime. The Bream Creek team choose just 10% of their best fruit in barrel for this reserve blend - and it is a ripper. Pair with Chinese roast duck or pork. $70. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Thursday 1 February 2024

Craigie Knowe 2021 White Label Sparkling Rosé

This is summer in a bottle: a pale, fun but elegant rosé that delivers plenty of flavour and refreshment when served well chilled. It was one of the standouts at a Red & White trade tasting this week. It comes from a family-owned and -operated wine producer that was a pioneer on the East Coast of Tasmania 45 years ago. It is delicate, crisp and dry with strawberry and redcurrant flavours on the palate. Perfect as a aperitif, or perhaps paired with a prawn cocktail or seafood platter. $50. https://craigieknowe.com.au/