Andrew Pirie is the eminence gris of the wine industry in Tasmania; the man behind many labels and standout wines. It is appropriate, then, that one of the stellar wines in Pirie's tiny Apogee catalogue is a a benchmark cool-climate pinot gris that sits firmly on the Alsace side of the gris/grigio spectrum without any oily excesses. This new release is both floral and substantial with pear flavours, minerality and a fleshy softness on the finish. There is plenty of palate texture, thanks to brief skin contact and partial malo. Lovely drinking in its youth - with plenty of potential. $44. www.apogeetasmania.com.