Yet another excellent wine from the talented team at Sinapius, at Pipers River, who keep turning out wines of quality and personality. I prefer this chardonnay, made using fruit from the winery block, to its sibling made from Tamar Valley fruit - although it is a close call. This is 100% estate grown from 20+ year-old vines, and newer close-planted stocks, and utilisies no fewer than eight different clones. The fruit was hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, fermented using wild yeast and underwent lees stirring and full malo, along with 10 months in French oak, one- third new. Enticing floral aromas lead on to a pure, intensely-focused palate with citrus and stone fruit notes and delightful acidity. It's drinking brilliantly right now and would be brilliant with Asian-spiced pork belly. $50. www.sinapius.com.au.