This is one of Tasmania's benchmark pinot noirs; always dark and intense, invariably cellar-worthy. Geoff and Susan Bull planted some outstanding vineyard sites on the East Coast of Tasmania back in 1980 and those now 35+-year-old vines are producing fabulous fruit that is vinified by their daughter Lindy and her husband Claudio Radenti, one of the understated treasures of the local industry. This is a simply stunning wine; a complex and intriguing melange of plum and berry fruit flavours and sous bois savoury notes. The palate is soft but challenging with quality French oak deftly handled. The complete package. $75.