A wine for sipping and savouring rather than quaffing, this is a very classy and beautifully balanced chardonnay crafted by Shane Holloway and Fran Austin at Pipers River winery Delamere. It's made in a classic cool-climate style with wild ferment, partial malo and 10 months of lees stirring in Burgundian oak barrels adding complexity and interest without deflecting away from the purity and intensity of the fruit. Think citrus notes, hints of white peach, some smoky oak and bright acid, all delightfully poised and coming in at just 13% alcohol. Match with roast pork and crackling; or cheesy pasta dishes. $50.www.delamerevineyards.com.au.