Stoney Rise 2022 Trousseau

 

Joe Holyman likes to march to the beat of a different drum. His wine range includes varieties like gruner veltliner and savagnin, both rare in Tasmania, along with the extremely unusual trousseau, a French red grape from the Jura region that is also known as bastardo. This sits somewhere between pinot meunier and grenache when it comes to weight, so it is a bright, juicy style of wine - and very food friendly. The grapes were 100% estate grown in the Tamar Valley, from young vines and the wine was aged in clay amphora pots prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Fresh and fruity with red cherry notes, but with some added power from a warm year. Holyman reckons you should pair this with a tuna steak, or cheese kransky. He might be joking; but maybe not. $40. https://www.stoneyrise.com/

Moores Hill 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir

Balance is a key factor when it comes to pinot noir. And this new release from Tamar Valley standout Moores Hill has impeccable balance. James Oliver and Constance Olivier haven't missed a beat since taking over the vineyard and business from the Allport family last year - and this is a delightful example of complex, complete cool-climate pinot. It is made from three barriques that stood out from the rest despite containing fruit from vines under a decade old. There is everything you'd look for in a young wine here; dark fruit and earthy aromas, palate intensity with black fruit and spice notes, along with a soft finish. Lovely stuff. $65. www.mooreshill.com.au

Bubb + Pooley 2022 Chardonnay

 

Bubb + Pooley is the private label, or "side hustle", of winemaking duo Justin Bubb and Anna Pooley, designed as a space where they can expand their stylistic boundaries. This an excellent example of Coal River Valley chardonnay made from fruit grown by one of their friends. The grapes were fermented and matured in a "spherical concrete vessel" and French oak barriques, The end result is both vegan friendly and unfined. There was partial malolactic fermentation, but this wine is all about the freshness and purity of the cool-climate fruit. There is a lovely vibrancy and bright acid here. If you love white Burgundies then this will be right up your alley. $65. https://bubbandpooley.com.au/

Chatto 2022 Bird Vineyard Pinot Noir

 

In addition to the outstanding pinot noirs from their Isle vineyard in the Huon Valley, Jim and Daisy Chatto also produce a limited-release range of pinots made using fruit from different vineyards around Tasmania. There are tiny amounts of the delightful Seven Inch pinot from a minuscule vineyard overlooking the Huon; the darker, more muscular Killara from the Coal River Valley, and the lutruwita, a lovely blend of fruit from several different vineyards around the state. If you like your pinots light and ethereal, this is probably the one for you: made from fruit grown on a Pipers River vineyard planted by Tasmanian pioneer Dr Andrew Pirie in 1998, Bird is a red-fruited single clone (214) wine with hints of spice on the nose and wonderful length and purity. Be quick, all these wines are in very short supply. $70ish. www.chattowines.com/

Bream Creek 2022 Estate Pinot Noir

 

For almost 50 years Bream Creek has been delivering great value wines from the south-east corner of Tasmania. The estate vineyard overlooks Maria Island. This is a classic cool-climate Tassie pinot without the price tag of some of its Apple Isle compadres. There is an aromatic nose of dark fruits and spices, which leads on to a palate alive with vibrant cherry, plum and berries flavours. This finishes long and has an impressive tannin structure which suggests cellaring potential. But why wait? It is delicious now with a lamb backstrap, or perhaps a platter of Tasmanian cheeses. $45. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Brown Brothers 2021 Patricia Chardonnay

 

Brown Brothers, one of Australia's leading family wine producers, has made a major investment in Tasmania. Not only does it own and operate labels including Tamar Ridge, Devil's Corner and Pirie, it is also now sourcing Tasmania fruit for wines including its own high-end sparkling wines, and for this exquisite chardonnay, which is made from fruit grown on the the East Coast and the Tamar Valley. Only released in outstanding years, this vintage was whole bunch-pressed and barrel fermented but the stellar cool-climate fruit remains the star turn. Vibrant but impeccably balanced, it is elegant, with bright acid, citrus and white stone fruit notes. French oak sits in the background and the wine has a lovely mouthfeel. Worth a splurge, perhaps for Mother's Day. $60. https://www.brownbrothers.com.au/  

Delamere Vineyard 2021 Pinot Noir

 

Family-owned and -operated Delamere is a Pipers River producer that has built a formidable reputation for consistent quality. I'm a little bit late reviewing this excellent pinot crafted by Shane Holloway and Fran Austin with their website showing the remaining bottles at the winery are only available for club members. That said, some rooting around at quality wine retailers might pay dividends. This is a classic cool-climate pinot with red berry fruits to the fore, with hints of minerality and spice adding to a complex palate. This a 100% estate wine and is designed to be enjoyed with food, perhaps duck or quail would be the best partners. Given this fast-rising prices for high-end Tassie pinots, this is very fairly priced at $65. www.delamerevineyards.com.au