Brown Brothers, one of Australia's leading family wine producers, has made a major investment in Tasmania. Not only does it own and operate labels including Tamar Ridge, Devil's Corner and Pirie, it is also now sourcing Tasmania fruit for wines including its own high-end sparkling wines, and for this exquisite chardonnay, which is made from fruit grown on the the East Coast and the Tamar Valley. Only released in outstanding years, this vintage was whole bunch-pressed and barrel fermented but the stellar cool-climate fruit remains the star turn. Vibrant but impeccably balanced, it is elegant, with bright acid, citrus and white stone fruit notes. French oak sits in the background and the wine has a lovely mouthfeel. Worth a splurge, perhaps for Mother's Day. $60. https://www.brownbrothers.com.au/
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