Made in tiny quantities (the vineyard is only 1-hectare), this pinot noir never fails to impress. Ian and Caryl Cairns thumb their noses at the elements by growing top-class pinot using organic and biodynamic methods on the eastern foothills of the Cluan Tier overlooking the Liffey Valley outside Deloraine in north-western Tasmania. The massive diurnal variation in the region makes for intensely flavoured wines, which are hand-picked and made with minimal sulphur, and this is a crackingly good example, unashamedly varietal, tight, taut and terrific with great balance and immediately approachability. Delicious and well worth seeking out. $36. Ring (03) 6397 3470 for retail outlets.
Joe Holyman is a colourful, fun-loving character, whose high-quality wines reflect both his sense of humour (take a look at the label on this bottle, which appears to feature either Joe or wine writer Mike Bennie naked) and his serious winemaking side. This is a charmingly rustic new release; made without the addition of any sulphur, which is used as a preservative in most wines. It takes "minimal intervention" to the brink as it was also bottled without being fined or filtered. If you enjoy wines made in the style of Beaujolais or Passetoutrgains you'll love this unpretentious little number. It is fresh and immediately approachable; like the vinous equivalent of a bowl of fresh strawberries and cream with truffles on top. It is texturally pleasing, too. Put a bottle of this in the fridge for an hour or so and enjoy chilled on a warm summer day. $32. http://winestore.stoneyrise.com/no-clothes-no-so2-pinot-noir/
Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice are a talented and innovative young couple who make some of Tasmania's most exciting wines under the Sinapius label, utilising fruit from their own close-planted vines at Pipers River and also using grapes sourced from the Tamar Valley. This is the second release of their white field blend from their own estate, a melange of 50% riesling, 30% gruner veltliner and 15% pinot gris, along with small portions of pinot blanc and gewurztraminer. Now bottled in Alsace-style bottles, this is thoroughly interesting wine with textural elements alongside bright fruit and crisp acid from young vines.The hand-picked fruit was whole-bunch pressed with a percentage of the fruit left on skins for 48 hours. The five varieties were co-fermented with using indigenous yeasts matured in old 500-litre puncheons, and kept on lees for five months. The end result is captivating; think apple, pear, citrus, stone fruit and spice notes, white pepper and kaffir limes, plenty of texture and crispness on the finish. Think Alsatian freshness rather than oiliness. With fewer than 400 cases made, speed might be of the essence. $38. www.sinapius.com.au.
Some of Tasmania's finest sparkling wines are as expensive as premium Champagnes, but this non-vintage release from Frogmore Creek is both delicious and affordable. Made in an aperitif style, fresh and crisp, this has citrus and red berry flavours, along with toast and bright acid. It is a blend of 90% chardonnay and 10% pinot noir grown in the Coal River Valley, just outside Hobart. An elegant choice that would pair brilliantly with oysters or scalllops - or with savoury snacks at a Christmas party. $29. www.frogmorecreek.com.au.
Stargazer is the striking label of former Wirra Wirra and Tower Estate winemaker Sam Connew and the release of her 2016 whites, along with an impressive 2015 Chardonnay, comes as a welcome relief as she ran out of stock from the previous vintage several months ago. This is an outstanding textural off-dry riesling and is the first made from fruit grown on the Palisander vineyard in the Coal River Valley, which Connew purchased in February. Along with hedgerow aromatics and bright citrus and Granny Smith apple notes, you'll find river pebble and quartz minerality and some fruit sweetness. The wine is a result of whole-bunch and wild ferments and was matured in a mix of stainless steel, ceramic eggs and older oak. Downright delicious, but it might pay to be quick as only 4533 bottles were produced. $35. www.stargazerwine.com.au.
Home Hill, tucked away in the Huon Valley in the deep south of Tasmania, gained global recognition when the 2014 edition of its reserve pinot noir was awarded perhaps Australia's most famous wine accolade: the Jimmy Watson trophy. That win was thanks to the combined passion of owners Terry and Rosemary Bennett and expertise of viticultural/winemaker duo Paul and Gilli Lipscombe. This is the follow-up vintage and it is, once again, of exceptional quality. It is on the muscular side of the pinot spectrum, inky and intense, and should be given some time after the bottle is opened. I actually enjoyed it more on the second day than the first. The wine is made from the top barrels of the vintage with one small section of the vineyard at its core. It is earthy, complex, and has impressive tannin structure. A cellaring prospect? Certainly. $75. www.homehillwines.com.au.
This is seriously good gear at a very reasonable (read bargain) price. Spring Vale is a small family-run winery on Tasmania's remote East Coast that regularly punches above its weight in both quality and value. Tasted against several more expensive interstate siblings it shone over two nights and I ended up with an empty bottle. This is youthful and modern with delightful natural acidity, citrus and stone fruit flavours and almost imperceptible oak influence, even though 50% of the fruit is fermented in new and old French oak. I liked the minerality, the freshness, balance and texture and this would marry very well with roast pork and crackling. The Q code links to video and tasting notes is also a nice modern touch.
$28. www.springvalewines.com
