Haddow & Dineen 2023 Grain of Truth Pinot Gris

 

Haddow & Dineen is the impressive collaboration between Tasmanian cheese guru and wine lover Nick Haddow and former Joseph Chromy winemaker Jeremy Dineen. The pair has a project underway to deliver a super-premium benchmark pinot gris down the track, but their current textural release from their Yorktown Vineyard delivers a lot of drinking pleasure. This is not a simple wine - as so many pinots gris are. Think hand-picking, whole bunch pressing, wild yeast and barrel fermentation. The end result is just a little funky, unfined, unfiltered and full of palate weight and density. Its richness and complexity make it very food friendly. $60.  https://www.haddowanddineen.com.au  

Sailor Seeks Horse 2023 Chardonnay

Wife and husband team Gilli and Paul Lipscombe have been making some of Tasmania's finest artisan chardonnays and pinots for several years now, but is exciting to see them continue to make tweaks to their vineyard at Cradoc in the Huon Valley that produce small incremental improvements as they learn more about their vines. This is an outstanding estate chardonnay that is notable for its clarity of style. There is plenty of length, some cool-climate varietal swagger and briny hints, with quality French oak providing texture. Pork belly would make a stellar food/wine match. A brand new release, this, but given the history of the brand it probably won't last long. A regional exemplar. $70. https://www.sailorseekshorse.com.au/

Resolution Vineyard 2024 Pinot Noir

 

There is a capital P for potential and a capital V for value for this brand-new release from one of Tasmania's prettiest vineyards. I tasted this just three weeks after it had been bottled and it was a little disjointed, but it opened up impressively over 24 hours. Resolution Vineyard is a tiny, one variety vineyard that has been producing excellent quality pinots for several years, vinified by Alain Rousseau at Frogmore Creek. There is plenty of flavour here, and unmistakeable pinosity, and we know that Resolution pinots age impressively. All good then. Hard to find, but worth the effort. And the price is a winner. Oh, and if you do want a bottle to drink immediately, the 2023 is looking very good. $40. resultionvineyard.com.au     

Pressing Matters 2023 Texture Riesling

Not your average riesling! From Coal River Valley riesling specialists Pressing Matters, this is a funky and textural take that immediately grabs your attention. Wild fermented in older oak puncheons and left to mature on its lees, this has plenty of palate interest along with edgy minerality and structure. Some time spent in bottle has helped tame the wild acidity that characterises many young Tasmanian rieslings. I like the length and breadth here; this is no shrinking violet. Fun and different with its yeasty lees influence. $65. https://pressingmatters.com.au/ 

Kate Hill NV Noir Rosé Sparkling

 

Kate Hill crafts some terrific-value, small-batch, cool-climate wines from her base in the Huon Valley, one of the southernmost wineries in Australia. I help out at cellar door occasionally. This is a fun Methode Champenoise bubbly made from pinot noir grapes: such a lively, easy drinking style for enjoying over the final days of summer. The pretty pink colour indicates exactly what is in store: lively strawberry fruit notes and a crisp, dry finish make this ideal for pairing with sausage rolls, party pies, vegetable quiche or smoked salmon sandwiches. $45. https://www.katehillwines.com.au/

Freycinet Vineyard 2024 Riesling

 

What a joy this wine is to enjoy on a warm day - and it is a bargain, too, given how riesling somehow remains an under-rated variety in Tasmania, where it can produce stellar dry wines. This comes from an East Coast vineyard closing in on 50 years of age, and is made by talented team Claudio Radenti and Keira O'Brien. I tried a glass at a friend's place, then quickly went back for a second. Hand-pruned and hand-harvested from 25+ year old vines, this undergoes a slow, cool fermenation to ensure maximum flavour. This is ripe, it is dry, it is juicy, it is crisp and it is hard to say no to a third glass. Pair with anything from a vegetable pizza to Vietnamese glass noodles. Stunningly good. $36. https://freycinetvineyard.com.au/

Holm Oak 2023 Fearless Pinot Noir

 

This excellent small-batch pinot noir is the latest pinot to join a formidable list made by Holm Oak duo Bec and Tim Duffy. It found almost unanimous acclaim from my tasting group this week, but the bad news is that it is made in such small quantities that it is only available at their Tamar Valley cellar door, or to wine club members. Made from two barrels that were outstandingly aromatic and intense it is named after one of the old wooden Alexander tennis racquets with which they have a family history. This is fruit driven with no new oak and no whole bunch. Think poise and precision. It is smooth and delicious. $65. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au