Lowestoft 2020 La Maison Pinot Noir

 

This was named Pinot Noir of the Year in the Halliday Wine Companion 2023, so I had high expectations. That were exceeded. This is sophisticated, stylish, slinky and sexy - the vinous equivalent of a little black dress, where less is more. The Fogarty Group purchased the historic Lowestoft vineyard at Berriedale in 2019 and winemaker Liam McElhinney is making the most of the fruit - with this wine having a big impact at capital city shows. Owner Peter Fogarty believes the close-planted, three-hectare Lowestoft site, which is approaching 50 years of age, has the potential to produce one of Australia’s greatest pinot noirs - and he's been proven right straight off the bat. This is a precise, structured pinot with dark and red fruit flavours; texture has been added by the inclusion of whole bunches and with French oak making an impact in the background. Buy at least two bottles, One for  now and one for the cellar. 97 points from me. $130. https://lowestoft.wine

Invercarron 2022 Rosé

The Jones family were early settlers in the Jordan Valley, north of Hobart, with a history dating back to 1827. They have been farming in the region for generations. Their latest venture is the first vineyard in the Jordan Valley - one that is producing impressive fruit, as evidenced by this aromatic, lively and food-friendly young pinot noir rosé that shone at a recent wine lunch at Rathmore. The estate-grown fruit is vinified at Ghost Rock in the north of the state. This is partially oak fermented to add palate interest, but is all about the lively strawberry fruit notes. Vegan friendly. $32. https://invercarronwines.com.au/

Delamere Vineyard 2021 Chardonnay

 

Two heads are certainly better than one in the case of Delamere Vineyard in Pipers River. Partners Fran Austin and Shane Holloway are both hugely talented winemakers in their own right and while they have tended to focus on sparkling wines recently, they also produce table wines of outstanding merit like this new-release cool-climate chardonnay that is elegant with plenty of personality. All the wines are 100% estate-grown, -made and bottled and this delightfully understated chardonnay offers white stone fruit and citrus notes with plenty of length and textural interest on the palate. Paired well with deep-fried ribaldo. $66. www.delamerevineyards.com.au/shop   

100% Family 

Holm Oak 2021 Shiraz

 

There are myriad reasons why shiraz will always be a minor variety in cool-climate Tasmania, but the island state is home to an increasing number of producers who craft crunchy, medium-bodied shirazes with plenty of food-friendly appeal. This is a standout from wife and husband winemaking/viticulture team Bec and Tim Duffy at Holm Oak in the Tamar Valley. Understandably made in tiny quantities, this has delightful red berry fruit flavours in play with crisp minerality alongside some peppery notes. From an excellent vintage. Great with a cheese platter, or a rare steak. $50. https://www.holmoakvineyards.com.au/   

Dr Edge 2021 Pinot Noir

 

A triumph from Peter Dredge, one of Tasmania’s finest winemakers. This is elegant, with pebbly minerality, wonderfully varietal character and is deliciously drinkable. It is a blend of Derwent Valley fruit (60%) Tamar Valley (30%) & East Coast (10%), which come together brilliantly after whole bunch handling and partial carbonic maceration treatment. Old oak casks add an element of seriousness to the fun fruit. This is floral, impressively delicate and simultaneously coquettish. Bright acid, nice tannins and refreshment plus with bright raspberry fruit character. $60. https://www.dr-edge.com/.

Sinapius 2021 Grüner Veltliner

 

You can count on Linda Morice at Sinapius to produce wines of high quality with a point of difference - and this Tasmanian take on the classic Austrian white grape Grüner Veltliner is no exception. This is a delightfully food-friendly dry white from the Pipers River region in the far north of the state. It has been naturally fermented and matured in both large and small format oak. It underwent full malo, and is unfined and ulfiltered. Think melon aromas, pear, white pepper and river pebble notes on the palate, interesting texture and good length. This paired well with a vegetable curry. $38. https://sinapius.com.au/

Apogee 2019 Deluxe Vintage Rosé

 

There is just no stopping Tasmanian wine pioneer Andrew Pirie, who continues to produce outstanding wines from his tiny Apogee vineyard at Lebrina in northern Tasmania at an age when many of his contemporaries are tucked up in front of the fire with their slippers on. This is an outstanding example of cool-climate sparkling wines in the mode that has made the world sit up and take notice of Tasmanian bubbles. This is very floral, bone dry with an impressive mousse, expressive wild strawberry flavours on the very crisp palate with intense minerality along with impressive length. Lovely stuff. $75. www.apogeetasmania.com/