Leo Buring is a wine brand usually associated with fine and potentially long-lived rieslings from the Clare and Eden valleys in South Australia. But winemaker Marie Clay also has access to some top-notch riesling fruit grown at White Hills in northern Tasmania. A very good growing season saw the fruit allowed to reach maximum flavour intensity before being full-bunch pressed. The juice was matured for six months on lees in stainless steel; and a small portion in a ceramic tulip. The end result is a generously favoured riesling with impressive texture. Floral, spicy, long. soft and clean with just a smidgen of residual sugar. Very food friendly. $40.