Delamere duo Fran Austin and Shane Holloway are nowadays concentrating a lot of their efforts on a stellar range of sparkling wines, but their table wines are also well worth sampling with this new-release pinot noir a case in point. This is unmistakeably cool-climate pinot from the Pipers River region in the north of Tasmania, with more than a nod to the elegant pinots of Burgundy. It is taut and restrained and designed to be enjoyed with food, preferably roast duck, and would certainly reward patience if you opt to cellar it. This was hand-picked, fermented in open-topped vessels and matured in Burgundian oak. Think red fruits, tight structure and the tiniest hints of spice. Seriously good and destined to get better. $70. www.delamerevineyards.com.au.