The Stoney Vineyard in the Coal River Valley is a rare vineyard site;capable of producing red wines of style and swagger in even the most difficult of vintages. Domaine A is now owned by Moorilla, but this was made by the late former owner Peter Althaus, something of a Tasmanian wine legend. It is a very serious pinot indeed, with a stern face that quickly reveals a softer side. This is made from low-yielding vines that produce fruit of real intensity, and 18 months in French oak has added character and complexity. There are also slight hints of eucalypt to convince you that you are not drinking a Burgundy. Unfined, unfiltered and just marvellous paired with a veal escalope. $85. https://domaine-a.com.au/