Holm Oak is a small family-owned and -operated winery in the Tamar Valley that produces wines of real quality at realistic prices. This is a chardonnay that demands to be enjoyed with food, given the prominence of new and near-new French oak. That oak, 20% new, 80% 1-4 years old, along with natural fermentation and 20% malo makes this a complex beast with complexity, richness and intensity. It finishes with some brisk acid making it perfect for enjoying with roast pork and crackling. $36. www.holmoakvineyard.com.au.
The limited production one of Tasmania's finest pinots will have to last twice as long as usual. There will not be another Home Hill Kelly's Reserve vintage until 2020 after smoke taint from bush fires wrecked the 2019 vintage.That means buyers will have to be quicker than ever to snap up a few bottles of this outstanding - and much sought-after wine. Kelly's Reserve is barrel-selected from one of the original Home Hill blocks in the Huon Valley, south of Hobart, planted in 1995. It is all class with dark cherry fruit, intensity, minerality and complexity, aided by quality French oak. An impeccably balanced wine with the grace and strength of a ballerina. $75. www.homehillwines.com.au
I am a huge admirer of the wines produced by Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice at the their Pipers River vineyard and winery. All are full of personality and reflect the couple's adventurous spirit. This is the first varietal gewurz produced by Sinapius and was whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel to retain bright acid and purity. The must spent 11 months maturing on yeast less before bottling. With sweet fruit, muskiness, bright acid and a dryish finish this would be perfect paired with Thai or Vietnamese dishes. $38. www.sinapius.com.au.
Apogee is the boutique label of Tasmanian pioneer Dr Andrew Pirie, who has played such a a key role in the emergence of the island state as a high-quality wine producer. Pirie produces tiny amounts of sparkling wine, pinot gris and pinot noir from his estate at Lebrina to the north of Launceston. Pirie is a perfectionist and this beguilingly elegant pinot is aromatic and medium-bodied with intense red berry flavours, dark cherry and subtle oak notes. Immaculately balanced, as you'd expect, with a nod to the great wines of Burgundy. Pair with sauteed mushrooms or Chinese roast duck. $55. www.apogeetasmania.com
