You get an each way bet with this excellent dryish riesling from Riversdale Estate in the Coal River Valley, just north of Hobart. While it is still alive with bright fruit notes, it also has the first signs of toasty aged character. The fruit is grown in the shadow of the University of Tasmania's radio telescope and the wine is named after the Latin word for swan. Think musk and mineral characters and an attractive aperitif-style made by Alain Rousseau at Frogmore Creek. $28. Sold through Cellarmasters, www.cellarmasters.com.au
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