Made in tiny quantities (the vineyard is only 1-hectare), this pinot noir never fails to impress. Ian and Caryl Cairns thumb their noses at the elements by growing top-class pinot using organic and biodynamic methods on the eastern foothills of the Cluan Tier overlooking the Liffey Valley outside Deloraine in north-western Tasmania. The massive diurnal variation in the region makes for intensely flavoured wines, which are hand-picked and made with minimal sulphur, and this is a crackingly good example, unashamedly varietal, tight, taut and terrific with great balance and immediately approachability. Delicious and well worth seeking out. $36. Ring (03) 6397 3470 for retail outlets.