Nocton Vineyard is one the (relatively) larger producers in the Coal River Valley, north-east of Hobart, is a producer on the move. New management, new labels and big plans, including a cellar door project in the works. Chinese-owned, it has had a focus on the Chinese market but is now broadening its horizons to home consumers. This is downright delicious with classic cool-climate chardonnay characters of peaches, pears and melons, allied to savoury and mineral notes. There's also plenty of length here, lots of refreshment and good value. $28. www.noctonwine.com.au.