A very classy cool-climate chardonnay from the ever-reliable team at Holm Oak in the Tamar Valley. I matched this with a traditional roast pork - and then went to Tim and Bec Duffy's website to see they had made the same food matching suggestion. This is a really lovely wine with lively fruit and brisk acid allied to the merest hint of gunsmoke on the nose and oak (30% new) that is still a little assertive. The wine was naturally fermented and went through partial malo, adding palate interest but not taking away from the citrus/stone fruit vibrancy. There are hints of stony minerality, too, but all the elements come to together brilliantly. $32. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au.