Trial Bay Estate 2020 Pinot Noir

 

This is the first vintage from Nick Kayes and his partner Saskia, the new owners of Trial Bay Estate, which is located at Kettering on the eastern shore of the d’Entrecasteaux Channel in southern Tasmania. It is a very pure wine from one of the best regions in the country for cool-climate pinot. Trial Bay Estate produces only pinot, with the original block of vines planted in 1997, with a second block of  planted in 2007. Organic practices are followed in the vineyard. From a cooler vintage this is vivacious and seriously slurpable with pure fruit characters and definite varietal character. Only 869 bottles were produced, so move quickly. $45. www.trialbayestate.com.au/

Delamere NV Cuvée

Absolutely delicious cool-climate bubbles from one of the best producers in Tasmania for under $40. That's a win. Fran Austin and Shane Holloway at Delamere in Pipers River - in the far north of the state - are known for their range of excellent sparkling wines; and their attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery. The quality of this NV blend underlines their commitment to quality with its impressively vibrant acid and food-friendly appeal. The 2014 yields, which comprise the bulk of this cuvée, were small, giving concentration of flavour. Think brisk Granny Smith apple, grapefruit and white pear flavours with a hint of brioche and honey. A perfect match for canapes or a mushroom tart. This was a big hit with my tasting group for its vibrancy. $40. www.delamerevineyards.com.au/

Stoney Rise 2021 Savagnin

 

Joe Holyman may be best known for his structured and age-worthy pinots noirs, but he loves a little side project or two. This is a case in point, a crisp dry white made from the rare savagnin grape that originates in the Jura region of France. When savagnin was first planted in Australia it was mistaken for the Spanish variety albarino, but it  has now carved out a boutique niche on its own merits. This has a tropical fruit melange of aromas and flavours with some salty elements in the mouth. It paired brilliantly with a Thai stir-fried chicken dish and has impressive acidity and structure. $40. www.stoneyrise.com/  

Kate Hill 2020 Shiraz

 

I have been doing some cellar door work for Kate Hill during the Covid lockdown. Consider me biased, then, but this is a super cool-climate shiraz from the Huon Valley, south of Hobart. Serious shiraz with a cheeky smile. Classic character with blackberry, white pepper and black coffee notes to the fore and well integrated smoky oak adding texture and complexity to the impressive tannin structure. Delightfully soft and a little shy in its youth. Give it time to open up in the glass and pair with dishes like lamb skewers, or vegetarian tarts. $55. www.katehillwines.com.au/.

Pooley 2020 Oronsay Cooinda Vale Pinot Noir

 

Is this the finest pinot noir in Tasmania? It is certainly a serious contender for the title. Family-owned and -operated Pooley rarely put a foot wrong and produce several excellent pinots at various price points from their base in the Coal River Valley, where they have two estate vineyards. The fruit for this sophisticated, stylish and sensual wine is sourced from the older Cooinda Vale vineyard. Savoury characters and wild berry fruit notes co-exist harmoniously and the wine has excellent, understated structure aided by 50% new French oak. The RMS Oronsay, by the way, was the ship that brought the Pooley family to Australia in 1952. 97 points from me. $120. www.pooleywines.com.au/

Frogmore Creek 2021 Riesling

Dry, food-friendly rieslings are perhaps Tasmania's best-kept wine secret. High in acid when young, they mature slowly and beautifully, offering softness at 2-3 years of age before developing secondary characters. This one from the Coal River Valley - just 20 minutes outside Hobart - stood out from the crowd when tasted recently and would be a delightful foil for some local pan-fried flathead, or fresh oysters. Think zesty citrus notes on the crisp, dry palate with some balancing stony minerality. Lovely drinking - perfect for a pre-dinner tipple. $35. https://frogmorecreek.com.au/  

Craigie Knowe 2021 Estate Chardonnay

 

Tasmania is probably best known for its stellar pinots noirs and sparkling wines, but it also produces a wide range of excellent white table wines, including chardonnays and rieslings. This young chardonnay is a case in point, made from fruit grown on one of the cool Apple Isle's warmer sites on the East Coast on a vineyard planted in 1979 - positively ancient by Tasmanian standards. Well balanced at 12.9% abv, this is a classic cooler-climate chardonnay with stone fruit and citrus notes, a smidgen of oak and some bitey minerality. Pair with American-style pork ribs. Drink now or cellar short term. $38. https://craigieknowe.com.au/