Joe Holyman is one of the great characters of the Tasmanian wine industry - a former Sheffield Shield cricketer and party boy from way back when. Everyone who is anyone in the wine industry knows Joe. But Holyman's irreverent attitude and love of a beer should not detract from from the seriousness with which he approaches his winemaking - and has done for the past two decades. The wines under his two labels, Holyman and Stoney Rise, are impeccably crafted, the first using estate-grown fruit from his western Tamar vineyard. There's a lot of quality here; plenty of flavour and impeccable balance. This vintage saw 55% whole bunches during ferment and 30% new French oak barrels for maturation. Power meets poise; structure meets seduction. Cellar worthy - certainly. You'd almost swear it was made by some serious old duffer wearing a tweed jacket. $55. www.stoneyrise.com.
Brothers Jonny and Matthew Hughes are names to watch in the impressive arena of boutique Tasmanian wines. Their top wines are sold under the Mewstone label. This is smashingly good young pinot made from a blend of grapes from the D’Entrecasteaux Channel (where they are based at Flowerpot), the Coal River, Derwent and Huon valleys. There is a small amount of whole bunch in the blend and each batch was held on skins for 18-22 days before being pressed to oak. The wine is unfined, low sulphur and made in very small quantities - but worth chasing down. Superbly slurpable. $30. www.mewstonewines.com.au/hughes-and-hughes-wine-brand/
This will almost certainly be the finest schönburger you've ever tasted. It might also be the first. This rare German grape variety has been pioneered in Australia by Tasmanian viticulturist Fred Peacock and after several years of experimentation by the Bream Creek winemakers this is very much in the groove. From a good vintage, this is probably best described as a cross, style-wise, between riesling and gewurztraminer. Think tropical fruit flavours, lychee and Turkish delight, with a long, clean finish and some residual sugar balanced by fresh acid. We paired this with a very spicy Thai chicken curry and it was a combination that shone. Only 200 cases are made, so it might pay to be quick. $29. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au.
It was a complete toss-up whether I reviewed the 2017 Holm Oak Pinot Gris or the equally excellent riesling from the same vintage. Both are outstanding examples of cool-climate Tasmanian viticulture and offer excellent value as interesting sub-$30 aromatic whites. This family-owned Tamar Valley winery is one of the most reliable in the state, and the pinot gris is particularly food friendly; an amiable companion for fresh Tasmanian seafood, particularly scallops and octopus.There is an appealing blend of vivacious acidity and the oiliness often found in gris. The end result is a wine with appealing aromatics, fresh pear flavours, complexity from partial wild ferments and more length than Tally Sally. $28. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au.
You don't find too much quality Tasmanian pinot noir for $30 these days; prices have leapt over the $50 a bottle mark, even for new labels. That makes this young pinot made using fruit from the St Matthias vineyard in the north of the state a real bargain. It is on the lighter side of the spectrum with just 13.1% alcohol and offers blueberry and cherry notes on a summery palate. Very easy to drink this one, and it could even be chilled a tad over the warmer months. Best enjoyed young and fresh. $32. www.moorilla.com.au.
Think the remote countryside of Beaujolais; the rural aromas and rustic flavours. It seems bizarre that wine that's estate grown in Pipers River, northern Tasmania, should emerge so beguilingly French but that's what Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice have achieved with fruit from their close-planted gamay vineyard. Handpicking, whole-bunch and full cluster carbonic maceration play the key roles in this funky young wine, matured in old barriques for seven months and then and bottled without fining and filtration with minimal sulphur. Think bright red berry fruit notes, wild herbs and a palate that is as soft as Donald Trump's cranium. You could chill this for a few minutes, or simply sip it for summer enjoyment. Not your standard red - but well worth seeking out for its length and brightness. $38. www.sinapius.com.au.
It's all change at Tamar Valley boutique producer Goaty Hill - with new labels for the 2017 and subsequent vintages. I've long been a fan of the fresh, accessible Goaty Hill style and the new-release riesling, pinot gris and rosé wines all live up to that reputation. The riesling has been one of Tasmania's very best over the past few vintages but this sees the typical racy citrus notes joined by some textural character that no doubt reflects the estate vineyard. This has lovely balance, palate interest and a high refreshment quota. $30. www.goatyhill.com.
