Bream Creek 2022 Estate Pinot Noir

 

For almost 50 years Bream Creek has been delivering great value wines from the south-east corner of Tasmania. The estate vineyard overlooks Maria Island. This is a classic cool-climate Tassie pinot without the price tag of some of its Apple Isle compadres. There is an aromatic nose of dark fruits and spices, which leads on to a palate alive with vibrant cherry, plum and berries flavours. This finishes long and has an impressive tannin structure which suggests cellaring potential. But why wait? It is delicious now with a lamb backstrap, or perhaps a platter of Tasmanian cheeses. $45. https://www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au/

Brown Brothers 2021 Patricia Chardonnay

 

Brown Brothers, one of Australia's leading family wine producers, has made a major investment in Tasmania. Not only does it own and operate labels including Tamar Ridge, Devil's Corner and Pirie, it is also now sourcing Tasmania fruit for wines including its own high-end sparkling wines, and for this exquisite chardonnay, which is made from fruit grown on the the East Coast and the Tamar Valley. Only released in outstanding years, this vintage was whole bunch-pressed and barrel fermented but the stellar cool-climate fruit remains the star turn. Vibrant but impeccably balanced, it is elegant, with bright acid, citrus and white stone fruit notes. French oak sits in the background and the wine has a lovely mouthfeel. Worth a splurge, perhaps for Mother's Day. $60. https://www.brownbrothers.com.au/  

Delamere Vineyard 2021 Pinot Noir

 

Family-owned and -operated Delamere is a Pipers River producer that has built a formidable reputation for consistent quality. I'm a little bit late reviewing this excellent pinot crafted by Shane Holloway and Fran Austin with their website showing the remaining bottles at the winery are only available for club members. That said, some rooting around at quality wine retailers might pay dividends. This is a classic cool-climate pinot with red berry fruits to the fore, with hints of minerality and spice adding to a complex palate. This a 100% estate wine and is designed to be enjoyed with food, perhaps duck or quail would be the best partners. Given this fast-rising prices for high-end Tassie pinots, this is very fairly priced at $65. www.delamerevineyards.com.au 

Pirie Tasmania 2011 Late Disgorged

 

Pirie remains a shining light in the Tasmanian sparkling wine sphere, even though founder Andrew Pirie departed years ago. This is one for aged sparkling aficionados, having been recently disgorged after spending a decade on yeast lees. That results in a melange of complexity and freshness with classic citrus and brioche notes on the nose. A traditional golden blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, it has length and depth, meaning it is a pleasing partner for a range of cuisines. It comes in a special presentation box, making it an ideal present for any lover of mature bubbles - but it is not for everyone. Winemaker Tom Wallace only produces this cuvée from outstanding vintages. $145. https://www.tamarridge.com.au/pirie/  

Stefano Lubiana 2021 Ruscello Pinot Noir

Steve and Monique Lubiana have spent three decades working out the intricacies of various micro-sites in their Derwent Valley valley vineyard. The three wines in the single block pinot noir range have been selected for the way they reflect their specific soil types; a former market garden site (Il Giardino), a limestone rock shelf in the middle of the block (La Rocchia) and a block located alongside a small winter creek (Ruscello). For me the Ruscello is the winner in 2021, producing a very elegant, stylish pinot noir that shines with food. All the wines are grown and made biodynamically, organically and vegan friendly - the Lubianas were the first winery to be certified biodynamic in Tasmania. A fascinating exercise. $85. www.slw.com.au 

Moorilla 2017 Cloth Label White

This is something a little bit special from Conor van der Reest and the team at Moorilla. Stylish and complex on the palate, this is a blend of six grape varieties grown at the St Matthias vineyard in the north of Tasmania - and even includes some pinot noir to add palate interest. The field blend includes riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewurztraminer, pinot gris and 11% pinor noir, creating a wine that reflects the terroir rather than varietal characters. There is a rich palate thanks to some skin contact, but that is matched by some crisp acid. The wine was bottled in 2018 and has been maturing until its recent release. Buy one for now, and one for later. Just 161 cases were made. $75. www.moorilla.com.au     

Apogee 2022 Alto Pinot Gris

 

No one knows more about viticulture and winemaking in Tasmania than Andrew Pirie, who has launched several brands over the decades but now concentrates his efforts on his own tiny Apogee vineyard in the north of the state. This is consciously made in an Alsace pinot gris-style with a focus on a soft, dry, stylish and slightly creamy palate impact. It is textural and well-rounded thanks to a partial malolactic fermentation, but also very pleasurable with fragrant aromas on the nose, pear notes, minerality and a well-balanced palate structure that suggest medium-term cellaring will be rewarded. $47 www.apogeetasmania.com.au