Stefano and Monique Lubiana's 25-hectare estate overlooks the River Derwent at Granton, half an hour north of Hobart. With a focus on chardonnay and pinot noir, it produces some of Tasmania's finest estate wines- and is certified organic and biodynamic. This new release is hugely impressively, using fruit grown from two different terroirs on the one vineyard, one grey gravelly loam over clay and the other red loam over gravel. There is a distinct minerality akin to Chablis to be found here in a wine of delightful balance. Citrus and stone fruit notes, mellow oak and chilled tannins combine to create a wine that is both stylish and food-friendly.$58. www.slw.com.au
La Villa is a tiny family wine producer run by Marcus and Gail Burns at Spreyton in the north-west of Tasmania that used to be called Emilia, until locals from the Emilia-Romagna part of Italy from which they had taken their inspiration ojected and forced a change of branding. The wines, with Fran Austin and Shane Holloway as consultants, are of high quality across the board but this is particularly interesting; a crisp, dry white made from the savagnin grape that originates in the Jura region of France. This is the first vintage of savagnin from La Villa - and to my knowledge the only one in Tasmania - and it has produced a dry white that's both aromatic and minerally. Delicious drinking for $30.
www.lavillawines.com.au
Frogmore Creek winemaker Alain Rousseau is in the zone right now, producing some very fine wines across the winery's portfolio. 42°S is the central latitude of Tasmania and reflects the cool-climate vineyards in which the grapes are grown. This is one of those rare rosé wines that is actually a blend of red and white grapes; in this case 87% pinot noir, 8% chardonnay and 5% pinot gris. It is bright, fresh and fruity but with a crisp dry finish. Perfect with a Lebanese mezze plate. $30.
Former sommelier Joseph Burton now runs his own wine distribution company and has just released the first wine he has crafted: a Tasmanian sparkling from the 2013 vintage. He sourced some undisgorged wine (50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir) from a Tamar Valley producer and then worked with another estate to create the dosage, blend the finished product and give the wine 67 months on lees before release. The end result is impressive, an edgy, straw-coloured and complex sparkling wine that has an impressive mousse and some tart freshness, along with mushroom/brioche complexity. The back story concerns Tasmanian bushranger Martin Cash and the convict ship the Francis Freeling. This is a project that has come together very impressively. Tasmanian artist Luke Wagner designed the label. $56. https://joseph-burton-wines.net
The Stoney Vineyard in the Coal River Valley is one of Tasmania's gems - a little hot spot where cabernet sauvignon and other Bordeaux grape varieties can be ripened on a regular basis. The 2015 vintage was a small one - most of the fruit went into the Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon - so it will pay not to dilly dally if you want some of this. Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is an assemblage of Bordeaux varieties including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. It is crafted in small batches employing traditional techniques including open-vat fermentation, regular racking and hand plunging. It is matured in seasoned French oak barriques for 24 months before being released. This vintage is brilliantly textural with impressive Bordelais earthiness and savoury funk. Founder Peter Althaus has now sold out to Moorilla, so Conor van der Reest will be responsible for future vintages. Great value for $38.
I'm a little late to the party with this one, but it is yet another stellar example of the winemaking skills of Claudio Radenti at Freycinet on Tasmania's East Coast. This is definitely Burgundian in style with 100% barrel ferment, mainly older French casks and periodic lees stiring. The end result is a wine of complexity without being overtly woody. There is plenty of fresh citrusy, peachy fruit here, allied to grapefruit crispness and a long, intense finish. Seriously classy and an excellent match for poultry and pork dishes, or perhaps a veal marsala. This is so good - and impeccably balanced - that it is under priced, if anything. A bargain at $38. www.freycinetvineyard.com.au
Resolution Vineyard is one of the most southerly in Tasmania, and one of the smallest, producing only tiny quantities of pinot noir. Located at Middleton in the d'Entrecasteaux Channel, it is named for Captain James Cook's vessel HMS Resolution, which explored the Southern Ocean that the vineyard overlooks back in 1777. This is a sturdy example of Tasmanian pinot with savoury and sour cherry flavours and savoury overtones with plenty of length. There's a lot palate interest here and this one should cellar well. $30. http://resolutionvineyard.com.au
