The Stoney Vineyard in the Coal River Valley is one of Tasmania's gems - a little hot spot where cabernet sauvignon and other Bordeaux grape varieties can be ripened on a regular basis. The 2015 vintage was a small one - most of the fruit went into the Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon - so it will pay not to dilly dally if you want some of this. Stoney Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is an assemblage of Bordeaux varieties including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot. It is crafted in small batches employing traditional techniques including open-vat fermentation, regular racking and hand plunging. It is matured in seasoned French oak barriques for 24 months before being released. This vintage is brilliantly textural with impressive Bordelais earthiness and savoury funk. Founder Peter Althaus has now sold out to Moorilla, so Conor van der Reest will be responsible for future vintages. Great value for $38.
I'm a little late to the party with this one, but it is yet another stellar example of the winemaking skills of Claudio Radenti at Freycinet on Tasmania's East Coast. This is definitely Burgundian in style with 100% barrel ferment, mainly older French casks and periodic lees stiring. The end result is a wine of complexity without being overtly woody. There is plenty of fresh citrusy, peachy fruit here, allied to grapefruit crispness and a long, intense finish. Seriously classy and an excellent match for poultry and pork dishes, or perhaps a veal marsala. This is so good - and impeccably balanced - that it is under priced, if anything. A bargain at $38. www.freycinetvineyard.com.au
Resolution Vineyard is one of the most southerly in Tasmania, and one of the smallest, producing only tiny quantities of pinot noir. Located at Middleton in the d'Entrecasteaux Channel, it is named for Captain James Cook's vessel HMS Resolution, which explored the Southern Ocean that the vineyard overlooks back in 1777. This is a sturdy example of Tasmanian pinot with savoury and sour cherry flavours and savoury overtones with plenty of length. There's a lot palate interest here and this one should cellar well. $30. http://resolutionvineyard.com.au
The Bennett family at Home Hill in the Huon Valley are best known for their stellar pinot noirs, which win swags of serious awards, particularly for the flagship Kelly's Reserve. This is a very different beast to those complex wines, a simple drink-now chardonnay that is fruit-driven and made from some of the oldest vineyards on the family estate, planted in 1993. You'll find delightful floral aromas and then citrus and stone fruit flavours on a super-refreshing palate. I bought a glass of this, then a bottle. Excellent with a mild Indian vegetable curry. $24. www.homehillwines.com.au
Hard work has helped make Dutch immigrants Frank and Nicole Huisman a success story in the booming Tasmanian wine industry. The couple quit city life in Amsterdam and bought a small vineyard at Loira in the Tamar Valley in 2000. They have expanded from using a consultant to making their own wines from scratch. This is dryish riesling is made from 100% free-run juice and has floral and citrus notes to the fore with hints of candied fruits. Beautifully balanced and very easy to drink. $28. www.winterbrookvineyard.com.au.
Affordable pinot noir is an increasingly elusive beast. Affordable cool-climate pinot noir from Tasmania is even rarer. Cheap pinots often seem to be soft dry reds without a hint of pinosity. Under $20 - forget it. This one is five bucks above the line, but well worth sampling. It's bright and juicy with plenty of bright red fruit flavours, probably not destined for for the long haul, but who cares? This is a terrific summer quaffer that can be enjoyed chilled. Good work from husband and wife team Tim and Bec Duffy. $25. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au.
Brothers Jonny and Matthew Hughes are making some intriguing wines under both the Newstone and Hughes & Hughes labels; wines that make a statement and are little rough around the edges - but all the better for that. Think a vinous equivalent of the Ramones. This blend of 90% merlot and 10% pinot noir from the Coal River Valley was barrel fermented with five different yeasts, matured on lees in tank and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Chill; drink. Repeat. Dangerously drinkable this one. $30. www.mewstonewines.com.au.
