Holm Oak is a small family-owned and -operated winery in the Tamar Valley that produces wines of real quality at realistic prices. This is a chardonnay that demands to be enjoyed with food, given the prominence of new and near-new French oak. That oak, 20% new, 80% 1-4 years old, along with natural fermentation and 20% malo makes this a complex beast with complexity, richness and intensity. It finishes with some brisk acid making it perfect for enjoying with roast pork and crackling. $36. www.holmoakvineyard.com.au.
The limited production one of Tasmania's finest pinots will have to last twice as long as usual. There will not be another Home Hill Kelly's Reserve vintage until 2020 after smoke taint from bush fires wrecked the 2019 vintage.That means buyers will have to be quicker than ever to snap up a few bottles of this outstanding - and much sought-after wine. Kelly's Reserve is barrel-selected from one of the original Home Hill blocks in the Huon Valley, south of Hobart, planted in 1995. It is all class with dark cherry fruit, intensity, minerality and complexity, aided by quality French oak. An impeccably balanced wine with the grace and strength of a ballerina. $75. www.homehillwines.com.au
I am a huge admirer of the wines produced by Vaughn Dell and Linda Morice at the their Pipers River vineyard and winery. All are full of personality and reflect the couple's adventurous spirit. This is the first varietal gewurz produced by Sinapius and was whole-bunch pressed and fermented in stainless steel to retain bright acid and purity. The must spent 11 months maturing on yeast less before bottling. With sweet fruit, muskiness, bright acid and a dryish finish this would be perfect paired with Thai or Vietnamese dishes. $38. www.sinapius.com.au.
Apogee is the boutique label of Tasmanian pioneer Dr Andrew Pirie, who has played such a a key role in the emergence of the island state as a high-quality wine producer. Pirie produces tiny amounts of sparkling wine, pinot gris and pinot noir from his estate at Lebrina to the north of Launceston. Pirie is a perfectionist and this beguilingly elegant pinot is aromatic and medium-bodied with intense red berry flavours, dark cherry and subtle oak notes. Immaculately balanced, as you'd expect, with a nod to the great wines of Burgundy. Pair with sauteed mushrooms or Chinese roast duck. $55. www.apogeetasmania.com
You get an each way bet with this excellent dryish riesling from Riversdale Estate in the Coal River Valley, just north of Hobart. While it is still alive with bright fruit notes, it also has the first signs of toasty aged character. The fruit is grown in the shadow of the University of Tasmania's radio telescope and the wine is named after the Latin word for swan. Think musk and mineral characters and an attractive aperitif-style made by Alain Rousseau at Frogmore Creek. $28. Sold through Cellarmasters, www.cellarmasters.com.au
Mania is the "budget" label of Jim and Daisy Chatto, who also produce premium Tasmanian wines under their Isle and Chatto labels. This is a blend of fruit from three different regions; the Huon Valley, Tamar Valley and East Coast, hand-picked and sorted, wild fermented and matured in aged French oak puncheons for 10 months. Distributed by Fourth Wave Wines (which exports some of the stock to Europe), this is well balanced and immediately accessible to but still has the style and complexity for which Chatto is known. Well worth checking out. $35.
There is something very special about the Home Hill vineyard at Ranelagh in the Huon Valley, the southernmost region of Tasmania. As if sprinkled with gold dust, year after year Home Hill has managed to produce pinot noirs of exquisite expression. This is a classic cool-climate wine, full of personality and length and boasting beautiful balance despite its intensity. Lashings of dark cherry fruit flavours combine with quality oak and deli nuances for a wine of poise that offers immediate drinking pleasure but will cellar well. A warning: be quick as after several stunning vintages the 2019 vintage was affected by smoke taint. Sleek and chic with layers of flavours, this is excellent buying for $50. www.homehillwines.com.au.
