Natalie Fryar is known as the "Queen of Bubbles" and the former Jansz sparkling winemaker is building a formidable reputation for the quality of the wines under her own label. This 60-40 blend of cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir is spot on stylistically, fresh, vibrant and pure with beautiful balance of ripe fruit and nutty/savoury notes. It's not for those who want their bubbles to have spent a decade or more on lees, but it is a delightful expression of Tasmanian quality fruit. Fryar says it is "Made by Tasmania". Try it on New Year's Eve. $70. https://bellebonne.wine/
Owen Knight and his family took over the Elsewhere Vineyard in 2015. Once one of the gems of the Tasmanian wine industry, it needed some hard work in the vines to re-establish its credentials. Overlooking the Huon River at Glaziers Bay, Elsewhere is one of the southern-most vineyards in Tasmania and produces cool-climate wines of real character. This is a brilliant little riesling made by Glenn James at Winemaking Tasmania. It is full of the joys of life, with classic citrus aromas and lemon/lime/grapefruit sherbet notes on the long, refreshing palate. Crisp and fresh, it would be a perfect companion for a Christmas seafood platter. $34. www.elsewherevineyard.com.au
The Gala vineyard at Cranbrook on Tasmania's East Coast is producing some outstanding wines at realistic prices. This is a wine that sits midway between the pinot gris and pinot grigio styles, with rich stone fruit complemented by the lively cool-climate acidity found in so many Tasmanian whites. Fresh, clean and very pure, it is a really lovely summer drink with a high refreshment quotient, perfect for enjoying with picnics and salads. $30. www.galaestate.com.au
This is the first release from Petrichor Wines, based in the Coal River Valley just down the road from Hobart Airport. Tim Hodgkinson and Kate Akmentins moved to Tasmania from Sydney in 2014 and purchased 10-hectares at Tea Tree in 2017. They are planting and farming organically but in the meantime have sourced some fruit from a nearby vineyard for this impressive debut. This was made by Tim, whose full-time job is at Pooley Wines, and Thomas New (now of Mac Forbes) and is a single vineyard wine that was hand-picked and destemmed, wild fermented, basket-pressed and matured in older French oak. With minimal sulphur, no fining and no filtration, it is a beautifully balanced wine with contained power, elegance and complexity. Petrichor, incidentally, is the the word for the scent of rain on dry soil. $50. www.petrichorwines.com.au.
Alex Russell is an experienced winemaker who specialises in alternative varietal wines in South Australia's Riverland region. He's now turned his focus to a region with completely different climate and terroir, cool-climate Tasmania. On the evidence of his first releases he seem to have a good handle on aromatic whites with the riesling the other standout for ,me in the range. Gewurz is German for spice and this gewurztraminer made using PIpers River fruit has spicy/tropical aromas with lychee and Turkish delight notes on the palate, which has some appealing crispness. This is off dry and delicate but has enough personality to match impressively with Thai or Vietnamese cuisine with some chilli. $25. www.alexrussellwines.com.au.
Both the 2017 Bay of Fires Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are in top form; impressive statements of cool-climate quality. The fruit for this wine doesn't actually come from anywhere near the Bay of Fires, it is a blend of fruit from East Coast Tasmania and the Derwent Valley. This is a chardonnay of excellent balance with both stone fruit and citrus flavours, with wild yeast allied to quality French oak to produce a complex wine that is drinking well now with impressive length, but can confidently be cellared for three or four years. Look out for this one on special as I've seen it priced well under the RRP of $50. www.bayoffireswines.com.au.
Laurel Bank is one of Tasmania's best-kept wine secrets. Established by Kerry Carland in 1986 at Granton, just 20 minutes north of the Hobart CBD, the Laurel Bank vines are next door to those of Stefano Lubiana, overlooking the Derwent River at Granton. This is a delightful riesling, older as a current release than many of its compadres, but drinking superbly. There is a fragrant floral/citrus nose leading to a nicely-rounded palate with stone fruit, grapefruit peel and flinty elements in harmony. There is a crisp finish but also some mouth-filling juiciness. Ready to enjoy right now. $25. www.laurelbankwines.com.au
