Wobbly Boot 2015 Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is the most capricious of grapes; but also the most captivating. In Tasmania, pinot is generally made in one of two styles; the fresh, up-front fruit-driven jubey style for immediate enjoyment and the savoury, structured style for cellaring pleasure. This is the first release of pinot from the re-born Wobbly Boot Vineyard in the Coal River Valley and it falls very much into the second category. There is impressive fruit, certainly; dark and spicy, but this has the architecture and chewy tannins to suggest it will mellow and improve over the next five years, at least. Good work from consultant winemaker Alain Rousseau. 
$36. www.wobblybootvineyard.com.au   

Ninth Island 2014 Chardonnay

Ninth Island, the entry-level label of Pipers Brook, invariably offers good value for money. This is a vibrant and minerally chardonnay that's particularly food friendly, with a little more mouthfeel than with many simpler chardonnays. It is fresh and unoaked, showing off the quality cool-climate fruit (think citrus zest and ripe stone fruits), and would match particularly well with moules and frites, pan-fried fish fillets or old-fashioned roast chicken and stuffing. $22.50. www.pipersbrook.com.

Stefano Lubiana 2014 Gruner Veltliner

Steve Lubiana loves experimenting with Austrian varieties, and this is one of the first commercial releases of gruner veltliner in Tasmania (Joe Holyman also has some planted at Stoney Rise in the Tamar). Farmed biodynamically at Granton, north of Hobart, this is a fascinating take on the grape variety and has spent time in Austrian oak casks to add depth and texture. The young vines are not, as yet, producing wines that are particularly varietal but this is a very good drink that would match well with poultry or game dishes like pheasant or partridge. One of a number of outstanding wines in the Lubiana range. $38. www.slw.com.au. 

Milton 2015 Riesling

There are very few vineyards in Tasmania that can match Milton for the quality of its aromatic whites. The 2015 pinot gris from the Dunbabin family's vines on the Freycinet Peninsula on the East Coast of the island state was exceptional, and this is another stand out. A gold medal winner, this is enticingly floral with lime and grapefruit flavours to the fore on the palate, which finishes crisp and clean. This paired very well with Cajun spice-crusted John Dory fillets but would also work with Asian dishes, or make an enjoyable after-work tipple. $25. www.miltonvineyard.com.au. 

Freycinet Vineyard 2014 Pinot Noir

This is one of Tasmania's benchmark pinot noirs; always dark and intense, invariably cellar-worthy. Geoff and Susan Bull planted some outstanding vineyard sites on the East Coast of Tasmania back in 1980 and those now 35+-year-old vines are producing fabulous fruit that is vinified by their daughter Lindy and her husband Claudio Radenti, one of the understated treasures of the local industry. This is a simply stunning wine; a complex and intriguing melange of plum and berry fruit flavours and sous bois savoury notes. The palate is soft but challenging with quality French oak deftly handled. The complete package. $75. 
www.fryecinetvineyard.com.au.   

Nocton Vineyard 2015 Sauvignon Blanc

Nocton Vineyard is one of the largest in southern Tasmania, with 34 hectares of vines planted on Colebrook Road outside Richmond in the Coal River Valley, but until recently it has been one of the lowest profile. The vast majority of the wine produced has been exported to China, but under the new leadership of wine industry veteran Anthony Woollams, more is making its way onto the local market and there are some ambitious cellar door plans in the pipeline. This is a very well-made sauvignon blanc, unoaked and showing some restraint compared to its loud Kiwi cousins. It has a definite quaffability factor. $28. www.noctonwines.com.au.   

Bream Creek 2012 Pinot Noir

Vintage 2012 was a superb one in Tasmania, producing wines in a style of which this superbly focused and intense pinot noir is emblematic. This is one of the best of a very fine bunch of wines, worthy of being scored at 96/000. If you enjoy the strength of Central Otago pinots then you'll love this, which has terrific power but is beautifully balanced with dark berry flavours dancing a taste tango with more savoury forest floor notes. This has already won gold medals at no fewer than five different major wine shows and while its controlled elegance is appealing now, this will develop nicely over the next few years. $34. www.breamcreekvineyard.com.au