Haddow & Dineen is a small-batch wine collaboration between Bruny Island cheesemaker Nick Haddow and Josef Chromy chief winemaker Jeremy Dineen, using fruit from a small vineyard at Yorktown at the mouth of the Tamar River in northern Tasmania, where the vines grow in white quartz gravel. This is a very serious pinot with complexity and cool-climate intensity. It is hand-picked, 50% whole-bunch fermented using indigeneous yeasts and unfined and unfiltered. This is easily among the 10 best pinots from Tasmania with savoury notes (think mushrooms and rainforest undergrowth) and structure alongside quality red fruit flavours. Very impressive. $48. www.haddowanddineen.com.au/
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