Apogee is the boutique label of Tasmanian pioneer Dr Andrew Pirie, who has played such a a key role in the emergence of the island state as a high-quality wine producer. Pirie produces tiny amounts of sparkling wine, pinot gris and pinot noir from his estate at Lebrina to the north of Launceston. Pirie is a perfectionist and this beguilingly elegant pinot is aromatic and medium-bodied with intense red berry flavours, dark cherry and subtle oak notes. Immaculately balanced, as you'd expect, with a nod to the great wines of Burgundy. Pair with sauteed mushrooms or Chinese roast duck. $55. www.apogeetasmania.com
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