It's all change at Tamar Valley boutique producer Goaty Hill - with new labels for the 2017 and subsequent vintages. I've long been a fan of the fresh, accessible Goaty Hill style and the new-release riesling, pinot gris and rosé wines all live up to that reputation. The riesling has been one of Tasmania's very best over the past few vintages but this sees the typical racy citrus notes joined by some textural character that no doubt reflects the estate vineyard. This has lovely balance, palate interest and a high refreshment quota. $30. www.goatyhill.com.
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