Is this the finest pinot noir in Tasmania? It is certainly a serious contender for the title. Family-owned and -operated Pooley rarely put a foot wrong and produce several excellent pinots at various price points from their base in the Coal River Valley, where they have two estate vineyards. The fruit for this sophisticated, stylish and sensual wine is sourced from the older Cooinda Vale vineyard. Savoury characters and wild berry fruit notes co-exist harmoniously and the wine has excellent, understated structure aided by 50% new French oak. The RMS Oronsay, by the way, was the ship that brought the Pooley family to Australia in 1952. 97 points from me. $120. www.pooleywines.com.au/