Jim Chatto is the man with the Midas touch. Even when things go horribly wrong, he is still able to produce outstanding wines. The Marion's Pinot Noir is a one-off release after smoke from bushfires wiped out the 2019 vintage in his Huon Valley vineyard. Chatto was still able to produce three excellent pinots including this one from Marion's Vineyard, in the Tamar Valley, just north of Launceston. This is in the Central Otago spectrum, powerful but with its own savoury structural subtleties. It should cellar brilliantly - but with only 230 cases made it might pay to move quickly. $65. www.chattowines.com/