Sam Connew has been in Tasmania for five years; via New Zealand, McLaren Vale and the Hunter Valley. This complete chardonnay from fruit grown on 20+ year-old vines at Ouse, in the upper Derwent Valley, is enough on its own to mark her as one of the stars of the Apple Isle. I recently tasted her range and this particularly won me over with fresh lemon rind characters on the nose, flinty minerality and mixed nut characters. This is the epitome of modern cool-climate chardonnay; tightly focused with citrus and white stone fruit elements in harmony with quality oak. $55. www.stargazerwine.com.au.
Many Tasmanian vineyards are too cool for shiraz to ripen consistently but care and attention in the vineyard and some smart winemaking from Greer Carland have produced a very attractive young Derwent Valley syrah that's full of the joys of youth and chock-a-block with spicy, peppery characters alongside some vibrant - and very varietal - fruit notes. This is a deliciously poised cool-climate red using a fair swag of older vine fruit. The juice spent 16 days on skins and was maturation in French oak (20% new) for just under 10 months. Medium-bodied with 13% abv, judiciously put together with soft red fruit flavours and supple tannins this is well worth seeking out for anyone who enjoys Tasmanian wines. $48. www.quietmutiny.wine
Arneis is a fairly rare grape variety that originates from cool and hilly Piedmont in Italy, where is used in the wines of Roero and Langhe. Unlike many other Italian varieties it is is not widely planted elsewhere in the wine world - in fact this is the only example in Tasmania and one of only a handful in Australia. Husband and wife Tim and Bec Duffy produce an impressive example from the Tamar Valley with varietal pear and peach flavours and interesting layers of flavours. It is floral and dry and quite lean - and extremely food friendly. Pair with scallops. $28. www.holmoakvineyards.com.au.
