You get an each way bet with this excellent dryish riesling from Riversdale Estate in the Coal River Valley, just north of Hobart. While it is still alive with bright fruit notes, it also has the first signs of toasty aged character. The fruit is grown in the shadow of the University of Tasmania's radio telescope and the wine is named after the Latin word for swan. Think musk and mineral characters and an attractive aperitif-style made by Alain Rousseau at Frogmore Creek. $28. Sold through Cellarmasters, www.cellarmasters.com.au
Mania is the "budget" label of Jim and Daisy Chatto, who also produce premium Tasmanian wines under their Isle and Chatto labels. This is a blend of fruit from three different regions; the Huon Valley, Tamar Valley and East Coast, hand-picked and sorted, wild fermented and matured in aged French oak puncheons for 10 months. Distributed by Fourth Wave Wines (which exports some of the stock to Europe), this is well balanced and immediately accessible to but still has the style and complexity for which Chatto is known. Well worth checking out. $35.
